You can change the white background to one of several other colors with an account setting option. After making changes to the setting, be sure to submit the changes. You may need to log out and log in to make the change take effect. My Account/Account Settings, Site Display Options, Darken Background Color.
There's also a reading mode option that darkens everything but the center column. Click the icon at the upper right of the item header. Click the b of the b/w toggle switch if needed.
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