Adrenaline

The waves are crashing,
Lighting strikes from the sky.
Rain crashes in sheets of fury.
Only one stands on the lone shore,
His head held high, his board ready.
Then he runs, heading into the pounding fury.
He is at one with the element.
Adrenaline courses through his body,
As he rides his last. He will die in the arms
Of the one that made him alive.
His eyes are alight with the fire of the free.