It isn't the destination; but the journey |
Come for a wander with me, my love. Take my hand and together we shall meander the cobble-stoned streets of old Montmarte. Come back with me to days past and I shall show you a world beyond your dreams. Chance the journey, for it is the voyage back, brushing shoulders with shadows of Hugo, Renior, Monet , stepping where Picasso oft meandered, that is what's important. The journey down crooked streets overblown with flowers so brilliant, only Toulouse Lautrec dared do them justice. Montmartre, once, was heart of Paris. Its beat, lulled the daring, the racy. Street performers circused, fueled by the raucous spirit and unbridled energy centered there, swaying and tumbling above the avant-garde artists; reveling in the warm caress of Madame Montmarte. The tawdry, the garish, the provocative: defined a way to live, and more, subjects to immortalize. Ah, tis early, my sweet but feast your eyes on Paris at dawn- pale yellow wash over browns and greys. Let your mind's eye travel the breath and width of a Paris morn drenched in swirling grey, the Eiffle Tower rising dark monolith piercing the clouds. See for yourself why the artists yearn to wrap their brush in colors. Paris is a palette like none other on earth, and Montmarte, the vivid, living, breathing essence of the paint. Mosey past the Church of Saint Pierre, one of the most ancient churches in a city full of ancient churches, where Dante prayed beneath the Roman columns. We watch an ancient woman black shawled against morning cool empty her basket of flowers in front of a crumbling stone. Look, here is the Place du Tertre. Where I shall commission a portrait of you. First, we shall sit here, in this cafe, or no, the one with the red and white striped awnings and the pots with the geraniums trying to escape. We sit on metal chairs with heart-shaped wraught iron backs with pillowed sets as we lean our elbows on glass tables sipping too hot chocolate. There is whipped creme on your nose and we laugh as morning comes to Montmartre. With the dawn, come the street vendors hawking tomatoes and tulips, roses and roast chestnuts. You point out an artist with black beret and goatee smoking a cigarette through a black stemmed holder. A Bohemian nightmare who cannot paint. There, you say and we watch as a hunched over old man, grey hair streaming down his back captures the essence of Place du Tertre within a few flicks of his wrist. A girl, perhaps, approaches us, in her hand a painting. You are there with your wild flaming hair, your eyes dashing green as they search and wonder, your mouth, wide in laughter, your hand in mine. A done deal, clever girl, and we roll it in your backpack. We walk the narrow byways of the 18th Arrondissement skipping back and forth over the wavy bricks that rise and roll slantwise across the road. Trailing petunias, fuchsia, blanc, wave overhead from straw baskets with green rooted bottoms. We wend our way down the Rue de Steinkerque and watch as huge boxes of sweaters and blouses are upended into wooden displays. A whistle blows and the women, noisy magpies across the street stream across. Diving into piles- elbows and hands flying, clothing tossed and layered as the chatter turns to curses and gestures fly: seagulls after a shrimp boat and a free lunch. Can we wander this way? You point down another cobble-stoned street. We can, we can. We laugh past the Moulin Rouge, historic lady still, a Toulouse-Lautrec poster come to life. On now, up marble staircase lined with iron lamp posts each with trailing ivy and weeping begonias, scents I shall forever associate with Montmartre. Up, and up, the white marble stairs. The sun gilds the polished dome of Sacre Coeur white gold whiteness a beacon high above Paris. Atop the highest hill in Paris, the basilica affords a view of all Paris spread out before us: landscape after landscape stretching back in time and forward into tomorrow. We rest on marble benches eating pistachio ices musing on places where Hemingway wrote, and Monet was inspired. We peruse the photos we took today... of 54 Rue Lepic where Van Gogh lived, of private gardens spilling scents to mingle with the strong perfume of the coffee vendors. One of you, head thrown back, swinging in sheer delight around a lamppost; no rain, but you sang anyway. One of me trying to learn how to juggle from the green and white plaid clown in the square. The best, perhaps, taken only moments ago by a baguette carrying bicyclist balanced on one foot: us together with Paris at our feet. It truly isn't the destination that is important, but the journey |