The Dordogne

The Dordogne

It was 5 o’clock in the morning when Ronit arrived at the airport. She only went to the city when she really had to and this was one of those occasions. Her sister came to visit her. She parked in one of the huge parking garages; made sure she remembered the number of her spot and started walking towards the arrival hall. Even though it was early, it was very busy in the hall; people were walking in all directions with luggage, in a hurry or tired returning from where they went. This entire ant nest of people annoyed her; once you get used to the quietness of the country, it is too much. She nestled in one of the coffee bars and ordered with one of the waiters a café au lait. On mornings like this, when she put on her offensive mask, she was happy with the arrogant French attitude of the waiters. They serve quietly but correct. Ronit traveled a lot before coming to France, and what she always remembered about the places was the service in the coffee bars. In some places like France and Spain, serving is a respected profession, not done by students but by older man who know their skill and they serve with flair and correctness, without smiling too much usually. In other countries, in particular the US and Australia they drove her nuts. It always started with a too loud, HI HOW ARE YOU? You had to get your coffee yourself and pay up front, you must be lucky they don’t ask you to wash your own cup afterwards. They don’t ask if whatever you ordered was any good and if your coffee and service was particularly bad you knew, work and travel. She never knew what to do with the Hi How are you, and she must have come across as a rude European, because she was usually ordering before they could finish the question. Her coffee arrived and she found herself a newspaper. She was skimming the articles but didn’t read any of them. Her mind was going back to the years that had passed her by so quickly. It was already five year ago since she arrived in Brivezac. She didn’t fly but came with her loyal Deux Chevaux she found was particular suitable for this job. She drove two days, not over eighty to make sure they both would make it. The job she came for was not supposed to take more than six months, but she stayed. Nothing was calling her back to Holland and she felt good in this place. Brivezac felt like home now, a village with not more that seventy inhabitants in the south of France, next to the river the Dordogne. The décor is beautiful with green mountains and wild nature. If you started walking just in a straight line, ignoring all roads and fences, you would stumble upon villages where women were sitting together in front of their houses, plucking the feathers from the goose and washing clothes in a washing basin at the edge of the village where a little mountain stream runs down. It feels like going back in time and you can feel the peace and quiet soaking in your bones. Closer to Bordeaux the Dordogne became tame because the landscape was flat, but deep in the country the riverbanks were wild and the river streams fast, big steep rocks keep the water in. All the seasons had their charm. She loved the summer for she only had to jump out of the bed into a summer dress and sandals and step out into the sun. The fall was nice because of the smell, the colors of the leaves, the forest would transform from green into intense red, yellow and then brown, it looked as if the hills were on fire. They would light the fireplace and sit close together. The winter was the least favorite season of all, snow is nice, for a couple of days but then when it starts to melt, everything is muddy and dirty, the trees look dead and the animals go for their winter sleep. Ronit sometimes wished she could do the same. Her sister picked the right season to visit, summer. She took some days off and planned a trip. It was a bit of a gamble; because her sister was quiet an indoor person so she hoped she was alright with a canoe tour on the icy cold Dordogne.

She was called back to earth by her phone ringing in her bag; she picked up with the usual oui, and heard her sister’s voice on the other side of the line. Hello lovely, where are you? O, merde, she completely lost track of time. She looked around and saw her sister standing 10 meters away from her, with her back towards her. She abandoned her cold coffee and told her sister in the phone to turn around. She walked to her with open arms and the two women embraced. Bonjour soeur, cava? Cava bien et toi. Good to see you, give me that bag, how was your flight? Good, I find it still so exciting to fly and I love all the little things you get with your meal, yes I enjoyed myself. I saw Paris from the sky and before I knew it we started landing. Well, perfect then, Ronit said, let’s go to collect our special cargo, which number is it? They walked around the boxes and found number fourteen. Baby was lying in there, she tried to get up when she saw Ronit but fell stoned back onto the floor of the box. O baby what did they do to you, Ronit spoke in a soft voice. Let’s go and try to be home before she wakes up. They walked around in the parking garage until she remembered the number, and they found the loyal Deux Chevaux exactly where she left it. Are you still driving that thing? Miriam asked. Yep and it is still working fine, thanks to some very handy guy in my village. The car gave a big sigh when the big suitcase landed in her trunk. The cat went with her box on the back seat and the Deux Chevaux shook from left to right on her feathers when the women got in, slightly heaving left because of a weight difference. She turned the key and the engine started with its usual squeaking until shaking into action. She pulled out the choke to give the engine more fuel and they took off. Miriam was babbling still about her flight as if it had been a trip around the world. So where are we heading Miriam finally asked. We have to drive about two hours, to a village called Brivezac, we stay at the campsite next to the work ground. What is it what you are doing here exactly, because nobody back home is really getting it? Well, Ronit started, I am part of a team of archeologist who are uncovering one of the old castles of the last King of France. Yes, yes, I got that story, but why are you here and why did I have to bring your cat, Miriam asked. You have seen a lot of nice places in the world, you lived in different big cities and just came back to Holland, for what we hoped to be forever or at least a long time, but after a month you packed your bags and buried yourself in the middle of nowhere in France! Our dad is getting older and needs more taking care of and well, you know that my marriage is not easy as well, I just wondered when I could count on you again, I hope you are not planning to stay here forever or why else did I have to bring your cat, Miriam ended. Well, here it was Ronit thought, the real reason why my lovely sister came here to visit me, to guide me back home. I’m quite happy here I have to say, and I don’t know if I ever go back Ronit said provocative but honestly. Dad is asking about you every time I visit, Miriam tried from another angle. He wouldn’t ask you to return but I know he would love to have you close and Angelo is still single… O please Ronit said, didn’t I say last time I don’t want to hear about him anymore! I know you did, but he wanted me to say hi to you and he moved to a very nice house in Gent, that is only forty five minutes away from us but still in another country, he still loves you, you know, I’m sure you can move right back in there, but maybe you should start with just a visit sometime soon and… Miriam, can we rest this topic, I thought you came here to have a nice sister time, not to bring me back or am I wrong, Ronit snapped. Okay okay, Miriam said in a sweet voice, let’s rest it for a while. So how is Peter? Ronit asked although she didn’t care for an answer. O, just the same, still in the same job, nothing changed. We are moving to Amsterdam though, did I tell you our house is for sale? You didn’t she replied. They arrived at the camp site, everybody was outside having breakfast. It was Saturday so they started work late and some took the day of. She didn’t slow down when the road ended but drove on the grass and parked next to her tent. They were greeted by the two dogs Sjors and Sjimmy who were happy to see her again. Ronit unloaded the suitcase and the car jumped, obviously relieved to be released of the heavy burden. Ronit took baby and her box from the back seat and they walked into the tent. Ronit took the drunken cat out of her box and held her in her arms. She was making sweet little noises and tried to move a bit but her body didn’t cooperate yet. Ronit was immensely happy to have her cat back, she missed her a lot. I’ll just let you unpack, if you want to take a shower, that you can find in the tent next to this one on your left, the toilet is next to that again and I will be in the kitchen tent, just opposite of this one to make us some breakfast, see you there. She walked out with the cat in her arms, huddled in blankets like a real baby and followed closely by the dogs. Not much later Miriam came in and they had a nice French breakfast, croissants and pain au chocolate. Tomorrow one of my colleagues is driving us upriver and we come back by canoe, it’s a beautiful trip and we go downstream so it won’t be too hard either. Ronit showed Miriam around the castle and introduced her to the group. At night they had a dinner and campfire and went to bed early as they had to leave very early in the morning as well. She woke her sister up at five thirty and at six she sat in the car. Ben already loaded the canoes on top of his car and Ronit came out of the kitchen with a basket in her arms. You can sleep a bit more on the back seat sis, it’s going to be a long drive. She didn’t have to repeat that, her sister took one of the blankets and was snoring again. They drove until noon and parked the car close to the river. They woke up Miriam, who managed to sleep the entire road and they had late breakfast in the sun. Ben unloaded the canoes, and wished them a good trip. Ronit started to load their luggage into the canoe and Miriam noticed that it wasn’t lunch in the basket but the cat! What is that cat doing on a canoe trip? Miriam asked in surprise. I just didn’t want her to stay alone in her first day, that’s all, Ronit said dismissively. They stepped in the canoe and took off. Even after doing this trip a million times, she was still stunned by the scenery. The river and the rocks, the forest at both sides are so pure and beautiful and that is before you start paying attention to all the details. The dragon flies that are skimming the water, the songs of the birds and the fish under the boat, they added to the magic of the place. After paddling for a while, the rocks at both sides became higher until they were so steep that they blocked the sun light. The river looked threatening and angry; they heard the noise of fast streaming water in the distance. Miriam became a bit nervous and asked what was ahead. Just a bit of rough water Ronit answered, just relax we’ll be fine. When they rounded the next corner they could see where the sound came from. The water was going fast and there were a lot of big rocks in the middle of the river, it looked like a little water fall with a curve in it. I’m not entirely sure about this Ronit, Miriam doubted, but Ronit put the cat under her legs and steered them towards the edge, they went in. Miriam was screaming as water was splashing everywhere and the canoe was leaning dangerously to one side. Ronit’s face brightened up and she was paddling like crazy to keep the canoe straight. Normally she wouldn’t mind taking a dip but since she had her sister, baby and their luggage with them she decided to leave that for another time. As they came out of the wild water she saw that Miriam had abandoned her paddle and was holding with both hands to the sides of the canoe with her eyes closed. Open your eyes sis, this is what I am really out here for. Right in front of them on the left river bank Miriam saw a wooden house, build against the rocks with its feet in the water. They headed for the pier, tied the canoe, and as they were unloading the cat and the luggage they heard the sound of little feet on wood running towards them. Mama mama, the little boy cried out. Ronit picked up the boy and hugged and kissed him. Miriam was standing with her mouth wide open, not entirely understanding what just happened. Miriam I would like you to meet Andreas, my son. The boy reached out his hand and Miriam slowly reached out and touched it. She was still speechless when a man stepped on the pier and hugged the mother and son. O and this is Noël, my husband. It was too much for Miriam to grasp and she started crying. They led her to the terrace of the house where they sat down for a lovely dinner. They had a lot to talk about and when the dark set in and somebody lit the stars it all became clear.