I couldn't take a shower fast enough

Airline pilot wins a lottery on the Island of Crete. His trip to Crete isn't long enough.

I Couldn't take a shower fast enough

John M. Lesser

I couldn't believe it; I was on an island in the middle of the Eastern Mediterranean. I got here last night after a long flight to Naples from Philadelphia. I finished all of my work, boarded a pre-arranged flight from Naples to this island paradise in the Eastern Med by my airline. One hundred sixty-seven miles long and thirty-seven miles at its widest point, Crete, Greece is one of the gems of the Mediterranean, and I'm here. I still can't believe it.
My airline is considering adding a seasonal route to the island. They held a lottery in each department of the airline and threw everyone's name in a hat. Me and four others won the lottery. We all got an all-expense paid holiday on the island of Crete. Not in the same place but each of us in different areas, all over the island. I happened to wind up in Hersonissos. A quaint little town with the Aegean Sea as the backdrop to this adventure. The Aegean Sea is one of the Seas in the Mediterranean that lies between two countries, Greece and Turkey. The water is the bluest, aqua marine water in the world. When I was told that I was selected to be a temporary tourist, and won the lottery, I started to study Crete. I figured that this place was laden with Greek Mythology. Books have been written on this place and its contribution to mythological legends of Greece.
I'm sure I was making this more complicated than it should be. It's a vacation, right? I was supposed to be having fun and making notes so when I reported back, I had something to show for my week on a rock in the middle of the ocean. I discovered, in Greek mythology, Aegeus, the son of Pandion and the King of Athens, was the father of Theseus (Got it? It took me a couple of times to get it, so don't feel bad). To explain this so even I can understand it, Theseus , who in Greek mythology was the guy that had a fight with the Minotaur, and won. But, his father (Aegeus) gave his son a simple request. In other words, do this on your way back home so I know that you're OK. When he was sailing back to Athens, he was asked to raise a white sail on his boat so his dad knew he was alright. Theseus, not the brightest star in the mythological sky, forgot this simple little important thing that his dad asked him to do. Aegeus, seeing a boat in the middle of the water, sailing back to Athens, with black sails, assumed the worst. Theseus lost the battle and was killed. Lines of communication, not what they are today, Aegeus went off the edge; literally and jumped in the sea and drowned himself. Theseus, who was confused and upset by his dad's reaction, then remembered the request. By this time, it was too late. So, Theseus, as a memorial to his dad, named the body of water the Aegean Sea after his dad. Well, that's what I got form the story.
Anyway, I was in Crete, notebook and pencil in hand, camera ready to take pictures and notes to fill my report back to the company with reasons why we should offer a seasonal route from the United States to Crete. I was ready for the challenge. 100% pure tourist for one full week, seven days. Wow!
***
Armed with my tourist equipment, did I look like I belonged on Crete? No, probably more like a tourist. I was staying in a pre-arranged hotel in Hersonissos. The hotel was extremely nice. The rooms were along a manicured cobblestone path that wound its way through the hotel complex with white buildings on each side of the path. When I got here last night, I couldn't see the spartan beauty of the place. I left my room on the second floor of one of the corner apartments. Figuring, I wanted to blend in with the general population, I was wearing a sage pinstripe three-quarter sleeve shirt made of gauze fabric and azure blue cargo shorts with sage green Olu Kai sandals. Well, I thought I fit in. My alabaster skin screamed tourist. I'll work on that this week while I'm on vacation.
I walked down a beautiful weather worn stairway through an arched vestibule at the base of the stairs. There was a directional sign at the base of the stair pointing to various amenities of the hotel. The only problem was the signs were written in Greek, not English. A saying came to mind that had true meaning to me now, "It's Greek to me." I had a 50-50 chance of picking the right direction. I turned left, toward the ocean. I later discovered each stairway had a sign, and every other one was in English. I found the English sign and the first obstacle was overcome. Next, find food. I was going in the right direction, toward the taverna (casual restaurant) on the patio area overlooking the Aegean. When I walked into the common areas, modern facilities were all around. Little green, weathered metal tables with a cafe umbrella adorned with blue and white canopy in the center. The chairs were the same greenish metal as the tables. They were covered with blue and white stripped cushions. The one of many saltwater pools was further to the right. little cabas in blue and white canvas lined the pool side closest to the terraced gardens behind the cabas. The Aegean Seabreeze cooled the patio and pool area. I was comfortable here. A waiter immediately grabbed my arm and escorted me to a table, all the while explaining to me the specials of the day and what his personal favorites were on the breakfast menu, at least that's what I thought he was saying, all in Greek. To this point, I had not said a word. I was absorbing the culture and sheer beauty of the place. When I opened my mouth and spoke English, this guy looked at me without skipping a beat and chimed in with perfect English; Like I had just walked into a New Jersey Diner in Paramus. Scrambled eggs, ham and hashbrowns, white toast with butter and coffee. Worldwide, I learned a very valuable lesson at the Hotel Taverna. Greek diners are from Greece, and they are all over the world.
I just sat there while my food was being prepared and looked around. It was still early, not a cloud in the sky and the sun was already hot. At 8:30 this morning, it was 22 degrees Celsius (72 Degrees Fahrenheit), and I'm sure it will only get hotter throughout the day. The morning hotel staff were making their way to their daily assignments. I'm sure I stood out, even though, I'll bet that they are told to not make anyone feel uncomfortable while at the hotel. As I looked at the staff, while they were moving toward their assigned areas, I couldn't help think that they all fit into a Greek mold. Everyone had luminous olive skin which appeared to be Sunkissed, their hair was a stunning shade of dark chestnut with what appeared to be hints of copper. I did notice that their beauty was not just skin deep, there was a kindness in their smiles as they passed me. I couldn't help but think everyone embodied Greece. All of these qualities I noticed, I entered in my notebook for consolidation and inclusion in my final report.
My breakfast was brought to me, carried by a middle-aged woman that exceeded all of the observed qualities. She greeted me, placed my food on the table, excused herself (where do you see that in the United States?) and went upon her business. The food was excellent. Everything in the little taverna was very cosmopolitan. I liked the vibe that I was getting at this hotel or resort, not sure which one it was, but I liked it. I couldn't wait to document it all. I started to take some pictures for my report, but I just wasn't able to capture that feeling in the pictures. I was using one of the early digital cameras, so my picture taking failures were painfully obvious to me.
I sat there for a bit after I finished breakfast. I knew I wasn't gonna need to have lunch, I was that full. I just sat and let everything settle and began to plan my day. I also started to cultivate my Greek tan. I wonder if only one week on the island is enough to transforms you into a Greek Adonis? We'll see.
I started to looked at my map and tour book. I knew that I definitely wanted to go to Malia and Sisi, both were South of Hersonissos and Saradar Beach to the North. All were beach communities spotted with little shops and stores that embodied Greece and its maritime roots. But, Saradar Beach is one of the beaches on Crete that offers pink sand. These beaches are some of the 50 beaches on the Greek Islands that are clothing-optional beaches. The United States is one of the few countries in the world that has a hang up about clothing and the human body on beaches. Come to think of it, I'm pretty sure I didn't pack a bathing suit. Ok, this just propelled itself to an almost unsurmountable problem.
As I was sitting there, it occurred to me that if I sit here and plan out my whole week, it'll be time to go. Using an old tried and true method of deciding what to do next, I flipped my $1 Euro coin. South it was. I put everything into my little day pack, and off I went.
***
The next obstacle that I was faced with was, how will I get around? Taxis would be way to expensive. Besides, I might not be able to find one easily. In the event that I had to use one in a country where I didn't speak the native language, such as Greece, I had a plan. I called it Plan B. I collected a card from the front desk of the hotel with the name and address on it. That way, if I get stuck somewhere and I couldn't tell someone where I wanted to go, I could always come back to the hotel by showing the card. That is, presuming the person that I'm showing the card to can read. I have run into this problem before.
Digital Photography, was the solution to making my Plan C. I took a picture of the front door of the hotel before I left. I had all the bases covered, I thought and felt pretty good about venturing out on my expedition to unchartered destinations. Except I still didn't have a reliable method of travel. Renting a car was out of the question. I couldn't read the signs, had no idea where to get gas, where I was going and where do I park the thing. Bicycle was a good way, but I could not find a bicycle rental and the hotel didn't have one. That tells you a lot right off the bat. Walking out of the question, too slow and I'm on a rock in the middle of the ocean. From what I could see, any walking was going to be up hill both ways.
Another option I saw in a movie once; it was a Vespa in Zorba the Greek. There all over Italy, and as I come to find out, they are all over Crete too. So, for the most part, it's like renting a car, but I thought I would have better luck with a Vespa. Besides, there're way cool and I would have that worldly look while I toured the countryside completing my survey and exploration of Crete. Lucky enough, a Vespa sales, service and rental dealer was just up the road from the hotel, and had a gas station. I think it was down the road from the hotel? Last night when I arrived by taxi, I saw the proudly displayed Vespa sign, illuminated on the side of the building with Vespa's sitting out front. I was guessing it was a dealer? That in itself would solve a lot of my travel problems. It would also extend my range of exploration.
My adventure began by walking down the gravel road, lined with what appeared to be olive trees and low, ground level plants with little yellow flowers that stretched up to the road intersection at the Vespa store. The trees and plants were very suited to the arid climate of the island. What I didn't realize was the distance from the hotel to the dealer; and the fact that most of the walk was up hill. It was hot and I was starting to second guess my decision. I stopped to rest, I looked behind me, I couldn't see the hotel. In front of me I wasn't able to see it either. I walked a bit further up over the next rise in the road. As I reached the peak, I saw the top of a building. It was like stumbling on an oasis. I was saying my prayers that I was right and did really see a Vespa dealer not that far from the hotel and not a mirage. I crested the hill, there they were, little two wheeled baby motor scooters, little Harleys all lined up waiting for me. When I finally reached the front door, I found that they weren't open yet. It was 10:15, and no one around. This was a bad sign, but not as bad as the hand written sign on the front door, it was in Greek. I was hoping that there would be an English translation somewhere around and I'm hoping it wasn't a holiday of some kind. I couldn't make out much on the sigh, except for 1400. I was betting that was the time they would be open today, I hope. Some unforeseen situation prevented this business from opening at a regular early hour and the prospects of walking back to the hotel were out of the question. What was I gonna do now? My eagerness that I had at breakfast was slowly disappearing. My enthusiasm for exploration was slowly being drained.
As in all of Greece, there is always a chair and table in front of every business in the small cities that dot the coastline; this one included. I sat down and had decided to wait the three plus hours until 2:00 when they opened. That is, if they really opened at 2.
The little Vespa dealer was a small flat roof stucco building. It was painted white as were most buildings in Crete. The wooden door on the front of the building was weathered and in need of painting, it had at one time been painted a lighter shade of blue but had a brownish stain all around the brass door lock from all the opening and closings by weathered working hands. A nail was in the center of the door, eye height, which is where the note was hung as have many others over the years, I'm sure. The only window that I could see on the front of the building, needed to be cleaned. How the door stayed locked was a mystery. The door sat in its frame with brass hinges at an angle, with a gap at the bottom. The brass lock that had a brownish patina was loose, but the door was defiantly locked. Indicative of a low crime rate. This building wouldn't last five minutes at home, it would be picked clean. A note for my report: Low crime rate, a safe destination for travelers. The gravel driveway was lined with the same small plants that were along the road. The stucco below the window sill which was painted blue, was in need of cleaning, and the stucco wall was discolored with various parts propped against the wall. There were twelve pristine Vespas sitting out front in a rainbow of colors. The little table and chair that I was sitting in was next to the door between the window and the door frame sitting on a cobblestone pad. On the table was a full ashtray which hadn't been cleaned since the last rain storm. One of the drawbacks of Crete and Greece in general is that everyone I have seen so far, smokes. As a reformed smoker, sometimes second-hand smoke ain't to bad. But, too much of a good thing and especially second-hand tobacco smoke isn't healthy. This is probably the one unhealthy thing I'm going to divulge in this story. sorry.
While I was waiting until two o'clock, I was going to use the time to do what I was doing at the taverna earlier. Work on my tan and plan my exploration of Crete. Also hoping that the 1400 on the note on the door really meant that the Vespa dealer would be open in early afternoon.
***
Sitting at the little table, in the direct sun was draining. I didn't have a hat. That was a mistake which will be resolved as soon as I get going. I was slowly losing interest in Crete and why in the world would anyone want to be here especially when it's this hot. It must have been in the high 80s at this time of day. I wasn't smart enough to bring any water with me. I just didn't think I would be sitting here this long.
As I was sitting there, few people traveled the road. Most of the traffic was to the hotel and no one was walking. Seeing that I knew I had made the right decision about transportation; I was waiting in the right place. There were either cabs, or bicycles or Vespas. It was a bad decision to walking to the Vespa dealer, I should have called first. I looked at my watch, I had almost two hours more to wait. Sitting in front of the dealer that wasn't open, I'm sure was an odd sight to locals. Why was this obvious "tourist" sitting in front of a closed Vespa dealer? Well, I continued to wait. I had decided that at 2:15 I was going to amble back down the road to the hotel and circle the wagons and try again. This time I was going to ask the front desk for help in calling the Vespa dealer. Maybe they have an air-conditioned courtesy shuttle to the shop? I don't think so.
A beige and white Vespa, a color combination that was not on the lot passed me and turned down the road to the hotel. I figured, that would be cool to have, not to overbearing or ostentatious, just the color and style a worldly American Tourist would have. As I watched, the Vespa make a U-Turn in the intersection of the road to the hotel, then came back and pulled into the dealer. I stood up in anticipation of finally talking to someone and renting a Vespa. The Vespa was parked and the driver stood and removed the helmet and gloves. A folder was taken from inside the lite jacket she was wearing. I was stunned; it was the middle-aged woman that served me breakfast earlier in the day. I was confused, did she work at the hotel or at the Vespa dealer or both?
She did not speak or even look at me, the woman was preoccupied with something. She walked right past me and opened the door to the building, as if it was unlocked. But it wasn't. Turned on the lights, walked behind the counter and set the folder down. She turned toward me and said in English
"You look thirsty, would you like something to drink?" she said looking at me.
Shocked at what had just happened, I said
"I would really like to rent a Vespa."
"Don't worry, we'll get to that. I asked you are you thirsty, are you staying at the Resort?"
"You mean the hotel up the street." Not giving me a chance to finish my statement she said firmly
"The Resort."
"OK, the resort. You served me breakfast this morning in the taverna next to the pool".
"It wasn't me." she said.
"Yes, it was."
"Please don't confuse me with my sister that works at the Resort. I fill in when I'm needed to help out."
Oh boy, I see how this can go, two work and one paycheck with lots of overtime. That can't be what's going on, but maybe it is? Don't be so cynical, John. It's none of your business.
"We are identical, in almost every way. besides, I'm the nicer and more friendly of the two of us."
"Oh, I can see that." as I looked into her captivating blue eyes.
"No, you can't, I have a birth mark that is not visible." she said in a semi-embarrassing tone.
I didn't want to pursue that leading comment, so I changed the subject.
"Do you own this shop?"
"No. My brother Hermes, supposedly owns the Vespas. He thinks he's gonna be a model."
"Will Hermes be here today?"
"He'll get here when he gets here, he is that way." She said in a critical and disgusted tone of voice, like why is he even trying to do that.
"When there are things that need attention here, I do it when he's playing model." as she was fiddling with the folder that she brought with her.
Her eyes that went from business to sad. Something was bothering her. I started to read between the lines, which I probably shouldn't have. She was who her family came to when there was a problem? That's what it looked to me. I stopped thinking about it, I don't know how I came to that conclusion, but I did. She really told me nothing to get me to thinking that way. I guess I was just putting pieces together. She works part time at the Resort; she helps her brother out at his shop and who knows what else she does. What does she do? It wasn't my problem and I just shouldn't get involved.
"I'll take that glass of water now if it's still available?
She smiled and turned around behind the counter, went to the water cooler and gave me a big cool glass of water that just hit the spot. As I gulping down the water and spilling a bit of it on me produced a smile from my hosts face. She handed me a cloth to wipe my mouth and attempt to dry my shirt. I put the glass back on the counter and I asked her
"Do you have name?"
"Yes"
"Did you wanna tell me or am I gonna guess?"
"You'll never guess" she said with a smile tilting her head."
I must have had a confused and lost look on my face, I was gonna guess Rumpelstiltskin. I didn't get a chance, she then spoke
"Xenia... my name is Xenia"
"A beautiful name, very fitting. She blushed as much as someone can that has tanned olive skin.
"And yours?"
"My name is John. It's a pleasure to meet you, Xenia." As I extended my hand. She took my hand and spoke
"You know your name means God is gracious, it's a biblical name."
"I know that. My Mother told me that." Xenia smiled, picked up the glass and refilled it and handed it back to me
"Thank you."
I said to her as I was looking into her deep Aegean blue piercing eyes. Trying to change the subject again, but getting harder to do by the minute, I asked
"Can I rent one of the scooters now or should I wait for Hermes to get here?"
"There's no telling when he'll get here. His model classes cloud his head and he goes down to the light house and looks out on the sea and dreams or goes to his boat and sails around for a bit, or goes to his girlfriend's apartment before he comes to work. I'll rent you one; which one do you want? Pick one from out front and we'll do business."
"But aren't they all new?"
"Yes, they are all new. Don't you worry about that. I'm here and I renting it to you and who knows where Hermes is? I can't help it that he had to go for his modeling lesson this morning. He knows his work schedule. As usual, he works on his own schedule. He's the one that wanted to own this business that was given to him by my father. As always, I'm filling in when he has something else to do."
I wasn't going to question that, I think something may have gotten turned around in the translation or I struck a nerve and there is more to the story than I understand. I smiled and left that one alone, but I felt that Xenia was looking for someone to talk to and someone to listen.
"I'll be right back, let me pick one out and I'll tell ya which one. Oh, by the way, how much does it cost?"
"I will charge you 9 Euro for the day for the scooter, helmet, insurance and cleaning."
That was about $10 US Dollars per day at the exchange rate at the time.
"Sounds OK, to me. I'll be right back, let me go pick one." As I walked out the door to the twelve scooters lined up, she immediately opened the folder and started to read its contents.
I went out and surveyed the twelve scooters that were on the lot. I looked back in the door and said in a loud voice so she could hear me over the radio that she just turned on
"Xenia, can I pick anyone?
She turned from the radio and look up at me and with both arms, opened signaling to me, any one you want.
She went back to the folder and started to make some notes.
I picked one with a little trunk attached to the rear fender for all the souvenirs that I was gonna buy to remember my trip to Crete. The scooter was pale green with beige leather accessories, tasteful chrome trim and white wall tires. I could have done without the white walls, but the thing looked fitting for an explorer on Crete and besides, I was only renting the thing. I guess I had spent almost a half hour outside looking at the scooters trying to pick one. It was four o'clock and hot as all get out. I had spent all day at the Vespa dealer. Not what I wanted to do.
As I walked back in the shop
"Doesn't the air conditioning work?" I said as I was wiping the sweat from my face.
"No, Greeks don't use it, really."
"Well, if it gets this hot, you might want to start thinking about it."
"Oh, I found one. The light green and tan one, third from the end. " As I turned and pointed toward the little Vespa.
As I was coming back in, she finished writing and quickly closed the folder. She now had tears in her eyes.
"Everything OK?" I asked.
"Yes, it's good, I just have some things to sort out. It's a little harder than I thought. I was hoping to finish it up today."
"I'm sorry if I took too much of your time this afternoon."
" You're not a lawyer by any chance, are you?"
I chuckled,
"No, I'm not. It's just a simple rental agreement, right?"
"I had another question, but you're right, it's simple." she said as she smiled.
"I'll look at something for you and tell you what I think, if you want, but I'm not a lawyer." I said in a friendly, cheerful way.
"Are you sure you're, OK?" I asked again.
"I'm OK. Thank you."
"I don't believe it, Xenia. It will all work out; find yourself a lawyer and he or she will give you their best advice and help you through whatever it is that you need to get done."
I now had both hands on the counter. She took her hands and put them on top of mine. Her hands were soft and gentle as she looked right at me.
"Thank you."
"I really didn't do anything but, you're welcome."
" The sage one, right?"
She pulled out a pad of papers, written in Greek. Concerned that I was signing the airline over to her, we finished the rental agreement, I paid her for the week, up front. She asked me if I knew where I was going, I explained that I would be going back to the hotel, sorry the Resort, she smiled, to start my adventure tomorrow morning.
When I returned to the resort, I stopped at the front desk to see where I could park my Vespa. Next to the staircase at my apartment was a cobblestone pad. I was allowed to park it there. Very convenient and that allowed me to drive to my room. After a long day of exploring, that was going to be helpful, if not lifesaving with this heat.
When I got into my room, it was hotter in there than it was outside. The hotel turned off my air conditioner during the day. That must have been what the little Greek sign on the desk said. I turned the A/C on and had to take a shower to cool off. It must have been well over 100 in the room. I couldn't believe the amount of dirt that I washed off. I only walked up the road, sat all day and drove my scooter back to the hotel, and I accumulated that much dirt? Wow. When I got out of the shower, I was still hot. I was going to let the little air conditioner do its thing while I did mine - forage for food, eat dinner and go to sleep for an early start. Hopefully the room would be cool when I got back.
When I returned from the hotel restaurant, which was excellent, by the way, I sat by the break wall and watched the ocean for a bit. I topped off the evening with a traditional Greek after dinner drink - Ouzo. The distinctive licorice flavored drink relaxed me to the point I was falling asleep. So, before I completely embarrassed myself, I made my way back to my room. It was still hot when I got in. I made a note in my notebook - "Great food - piss poor air conditioning."
To save you from all of the ways I tried to cool down, I couldn't. I like it cool, especially when I sleep. The floors in the room were tiled and cooler than the bed. Yup, I slept on the floor where it was cooler. Below 100 at least.
***
In the morning, it was still hot. The little air conditioner was pumping out cold air, but it was so hot outside that it just couldn't keep up with the quickly rising temperature. I took another shower, dressed and made my was to the Taverna for breakfast. I walked down the hot stairs. My Vespa was still there. That wouldn't be the case at home. I gotta find a hat today. While I was sitting waiting for my breakfast, Xenia or her sister was working behind the counter making coffee. I got up and made my way to the counter and pulled up a seat.
"Good morning." I said to her.
"Good morning."
"Do you know my name?" I asked.
"If you know not your name, why would you think I know it?" Now I knew I was talking to Xenia's sister. She absolutely looked exactly like Xenia. How anyone can tell them apart? it was uncanny that the two of them were absolutely identical.
"I know my name, I was trying to tell who I was talking to, you or Xenia?"
"Xenia, how do you know my sister?" She said astonished that I even knew she had a sister.
I explained that she had rented me a scooter from Hermes shop up the road. Xenia told me that you work here at the hotel.
"You mean, Resort?"
"You know, Xenia, said the same thing. I guess I don't know the difference?' I said to her.
"Wait, before we go any further, what is your name?"
"My name is Arabella, and yours?"
"John." I said to her as I look in to those identical piercing blue eyes. She then smiled and offered her hand. For working in a kitchen, her hands were as smooth as Xenia's, and was as smooth as her skin looked.
Note for comments in my travel summary "Find out what hand lotion Greek Woman use."
"So very nice to meet you, John. Will you be here at the Resort long?"
"Until Sunday, then I go home."
"And where is home for you?" she said while folding her arms and leaning on the counter.
"I live in the United States, New Jersey to be exact."
As I was telling her this, a voice from the back called her. She put her index finger up signaling me she would be right back. As she walked back to the kitchen, she started to yell something in Greek to the voice in the back. A couple of minutes passed and them she appeared with my breakfast. Just a Greek pastry and some coffee. The pastry was great; the coffee was well done. If I wasn't awake before, I was now.
As we talked, Arabella came around the counter, sat down with me while I had my breakfast and we continued the conversation.
I signed my check and excused myself. My journey was about to begin. I walked back to my room - still hot. I intentionally left the air conditioner on so the room would cool down during the day. I even left a note for Housekeeping, hoping they could read English. We'll see how that goes. I gathered my back pack and started down the stairs, wondering why such a distinction between hotel and resort? twice I was corrected. No clue, to me there're the same. I guess I'm not as cosmopolitan as I thought I was.
I noticed, my little Vespa was as shiny and clean as it was when I picked it up. I really didn't have it long enough to get it dirty. It will get dirty today. I got a full tank of gas, tour book and map and I'm off. Its only 8:30, what traffic jams could there be on Crete except for the race to get a good parking spot at the beach.
My first trek was down the coast to Malia and Sisi which are both South of Hersonissos. I made my way toward the coast on streets that I could not pronounce even on a good day. The place is a paradise with the hill sides all of rock and intriguing. I wasn't ready for cars passing me on the right on the side walk. Apparently, there are two speed limits in Crete, stop and as fast as you can go. fortunately, not all the cars on Crete are capable of breaking the sound barrier. Otherwise, I would have been like a bug on the windshield - smooshed. The roads need some serious work. The main roads are asphalt or some kind of packed gravel. They are probably the ones that the Roman legions used to occupy the place way back when. Side streets are either gravel, dirt or some kind of loose fill and crushed shells that produces all kinds of dust. My little Vespa looks used today.
I found my way to Malia Beach, parked and started walking. My first purchase, a water bottle. Plenty of water stations lined the street, which was good. I also found a haberdashery. I love hats and I really needed one. The sun was out and blistering and hot. The temperature was off the scale and I was drinking water like crazy. As I looked at the variety of hats in the store, most of them were tourist type hats, with the Flag of Greece embroidered on them some with Greek words which I had no idea what they said. My luck, I would pick one that said something I don't need to repeat, embarrassing me as I walked into a diner at home. I picked one up and started to look at it. The store keeper, an elderly gentleman, who wore gray trousers that appeared to be two sizes too big, held up by his suspenders on his small frame, with the sleeves of his baggy cream-colored shirt, rolled half way up his arms who was very friendly, came over to me and in Greek started to tell me all about the hat. I didn't understand a word, but what I think he said, was my time in Crete would not be complete without this hat. He pointed out the details of the hat. Since it was all in Greek, it pretty much came down to "I can explain it to ya, but I can't make ya understand". I did the best I could, and smiled. Even though I couldn't understand Greek, he was so passionate about all the hats he had in his shop, I had to buy something. For all I know he was reading the phone book to me. It sounded sincere, at least.
But over in the corner was the unabridged selection of Greek Fisherman Hats. More than I ever knew existed and in all kinds of colors. That's what I needed, an "Official" Greek Fisherman's hat. How else would I maintain my nautical swager without the unique looking hat. I picked out a black one (probably not the best choice when the sun is blazing and it's over 100 degrees) with beautiful needle work around the brim of the hat. After the proprietor spent another twenty minutes going through the features of the hat, I bought it and wore it like the sea captain in Greece that I wished I was. Adjusting my new accessory and walking down the street, I hear my name called out - "John" from behind me. OK that happens at home in Walmart or Target, but here in Greece? I know I'm not the only John on the planet, but who knows I'm here other than the Company and the other explorers? It wasn't any of them.
I turned around to look where the voice came from. It was Xenia, I think, or was it Arabella?
I walked toward her with a smile on my face and asked
"What are you doing here?"
"I come down here to do shopping on the docks for tonight's dinner."
"Oh, what are we having?" I said quizzically (Which is a phrase I use at home all the time, not meaning anything and not understanding I just invited myself to dinner).
"I'm looking for Yellow Fin Bream. "
"Oh." I said, well I'm sure you can find them on the docks. It's good you got here early, I bet they sell out fast. I had absolutely no idea what I was saying, or what I was talking about. how could I possibly know any of that? I never even heard of a Jim Beam fish.
Xenia asked me "How many do you think you could eat?"
I looked at her, ok, I don't like fish unless it's more than $9 a pound, and I don't even know what a Jim Beam fish is.
"You'll love the taste, the way I cook them".
Oh no, what have I gotten myself into. This is not why I'm here. This will not look good in my final report "Rent a Vespa from Hermes sister and get a fresh fish dinner." How am I going to explain this one. I'll never be selected for another one of these expeditions, ever.
"Xenia, I can't have dinner with you tonight, while I appear to be on vacation, I'm really working." When I said that, I was compelled to explain my stay of Crete. She gave me a confused look. Then interlocked her arm in mine and lead me to the first unoccupied table and chair available in front of what appeared to be a coffee shop. In Greek, she gave an order to the waiter and in a few minutes, we had an array pastry, bread and other unidentified high sugar content treats, oh and coffee, which was well done.
We talked and I continued to explained why I was on Crete and what I was doing. She promptly offered to be my tour guide. I respectfully, declined the offer, and that was hard to do. I really wanted to do this on my own and discover Crete for myself. Also, I didn't want to be the first and only airline employee fired because he was having too much fun, when I was specifically told by the company to go have fun. It was a hard offer to refuse but, I really wanted to do it on my own. When I told her that, she had that sad and rejected look on her face.
We finished our mid-morning, I don't even know what to call it - Brunch, Pre-lunch? I walked with her down to the docks and had her show me what a Jim Beam, I mean A Yellow Bream Fish is. We talked a bit more. I explained that If I had time, we could share a meal. She wasn't as spirited as she was when she ran into me earlier. She is not an understanding person, but she understood my purpose here on Crete. We then parted ways, for today, at least.
I continued down to the beach. It looked like a painting. The rocky shoreline was in a cul-de-sac area that formed a secluded beach that really wasn't. It was just a large sheltered water, a cove. The water was a pristine blue and the sand was cream colored and remarkably clean. Fishing boats spotted the cove, away from the shore. Close to the sand and rocks, people absorbed the beauty of this Greek Island. Nothing like this at home. I was mesmerized by the beach and the water, the people and just how clean it was. I ventured down to the beach, I have my Olu Kai water shoes on and my Greek fisherman's hat on, I was ready. Except for my bathing suit, I need to get one to take a dip in the Aegean, or go to the clothing optional beach (that's not happening); for now, I stepped into the water and felt it's refreshing cool. The water must have been in the 80s, which in itself was refreshing. Now I know why everyone was here. It was well into the high 90s and it wasn't even noon yet. I turned around and looked at the rock cliffs that had little dwellings all over them - It was a picture postcard, absolutely stunning. I took lots of pictures for my report and made a couple of pages of notes. This is truly a vacation spot. Just one of many reasons to come back to Crete.
I moved up to sit on the seawall that overlooked the beach. As I was sitting there, I couldn't help but think of what Xenia was telling me yesterday and how she acted today. I interrupted it she is the voice of reason when it comes to holding her family together? How could that be? Her sister had a steady source of income at the resort, her brother owns a Vespa dealership, probably the only one on this part of the Island. I'm positive her sister and brother both have dreams of their own and want to follow them as best they can. After all, at some point in their lives, they don't need to be asking themselves "what would have my life been like if." What about Xenia, she must have dreams too. For some reason, something has gotten in the way of all of their dreams. Sure, everything was dependent on the tourist trade, but from what I could see in my limited exposure - there were plenty of tourists here. There must be more to the story. A little voice in my head was saying: "John, don't get involved". I was thinking that might be sound advice I might want to listen to.
***
During my week of exploration on the Island of Crete, I ran into Xenia and Arabella multiple time. Although I really was not sure who I really ran into, they were identical, as I was told and could see. Either way, the meetings were delightful encounters. I did break down during the week and did have dinner with Xenia. She met me at the Resort, where we took my Vespa and rode in tandem. She guided me through the ancient streets of Sisi. We ended our drive at an old-world alfresco restaurant that I would never have found without the help of my gracious hostess. The restaurant was situated on a small street overlooking the beach I had visited earlier in the week. The building was one of the few naturally colored stone buildings overlooking the beach. The entrance was easily a ten-foot double Cyprus door with relief carvings and polished brass knobs and hinges. The welcoming doors were propped open where we were greeted by the mare d' of the restaurant. Xenia, obviously a regular, was known by the restaurant. We were escorted to a table where we had a view of the beach area that I have only seen in magazines. The archways and subdued lighting added to the ambiance of the location. I did know it was Xenia I was having dinner with. I saw it in her smile. Nerophonia, loosely translated from Greek to English means, "Water Symphony", a restaurant that overlooks the sea and offers a wonderful dining experience, that's where we were. The sounds of the sea add to the ambience of the restaurant that overlooked Sisi Beach. The background contemporary jazz music added a relaxing and comfortable splendor to the overall experience. The pink sands of the beach and crystal-clear water added a calming peace to dinner with a cherished dear friend. Absolutely stunning beach, food and company. The sea breeze and the smell of the salt air complemented its Mediterranean menu. The food and the company were a Greek treat that I would not have experienced without my hostess. While we were having conversation and dinner, I couldn't help but stare at Xenia. Her soft graceful body with tanned skin was enhanced by the early evening light of the Mediterranean sun as it peaked over the White Mountains of Crete. the light raked across her face as if one of the old masters had painted a portrait of a Greek goddess. Her shoulder length chestnut brown hair had hints of copper in it. All of which set off her piercing blue eyes and welcoming smile. Her elegantly shaped soft and expressive lips gave a sense of warmth with a hint of perhaps a slightly mischievous air. Overlooking the Aegean Sea her face carries the ease of someone savoring a relaxed and comforting moment, absorbed with her. While I'm not really sure if it was the wine that we were drinking, I never heard a word she was saying. I was the one that was absorbed with her. The restaurant made it into my final report. I wouldn't have missed this day for the world.
I also learned the difference between "Hotel" and "Resort". Hotel is the place to just sleep. But a resort is fully encompassing experience. Where I was staying was a fully encompassing experience. I discovered the mystery of how my Vespa; every morning was completely cleaned. The Resort staff cleaned it daily. As was my room and my laundry. I never stayed at a place where my clothes were cleaned, folded and replaced into my dresser and closet on a daily basis. While those amenities were excellent, nothing made up for the fact that the air conditioning could not cool the room. Of my seven nights there, I think I slept on the floor at least six of them. The hospitality of the staff was beyond anything that I could imagine. They probably knew the a/c wasn't cutting it in the rooms. The Resort menu offerings were spectacular. If I didn't need to explore the Island, I'm sure I would have stayed at the Resort for the entire week. There was really no reason to leave.
I also stayed there during the hottest days of the year in 2007. During my stay, the average temperature was 111 Degrees (F), almost unbearable. The last two days that I was there, I had to find a shop that had a swim suit that would fit a mildly chubby American visiting Greece. It was hot, and I didn't bring a swim suit with me, what was I thinking? I had to step into the ocean, even though there are creatures bigger than me in it. I was willing to take my chances just to cool off. I must have gone into multiple shops to find a swim suit. The only thing I could find were Speedos. There is a reason that this story doesn't have pictures in it. This carcass, in a Speedo would immediately propel this work of literature into the "Parental Advisory" Category. It was not going to happen. I had to rely on Xenia or Arabella, whoever wanted the assignment to help me find a swim suit. I just can't believe that there aren't any chubby Greeks on Crete. Apparently, there are none.
On my last full day on Crete, my Cretan hostesses came through, well at least tried to, with a swim suit. They were well meaning, chuckling, the best they could come up with were various styles of Speedos. As we were sitting on the deck across from the seawall overlooking the ocean examining the different Speedos, trying to pick just the right one; this shirtless man came walking up to us with a bag and a big smile. Both women turned around stood and smiled. In Greek, they started a conversation as the man held up the bag. Everyone, except me started to laugh. I'm sure the joke was can this American get into these trunks. I don't think so.
I wasn't sure who this guy was. Then Xenia turned around, I think it was her and announced that this guy was Hermes. I felt woefully inadequate. Here was the real life "David", from what I could see. Michelangelo can't be far behind. This guy was tan, tall, more muscles and ripples than I even knew the human body had. Why he had to go to modeling school, I was clueless. Maybe, if I have a chance, I'll ask for some pointers. He presented his bag of trunks as I was being introduced by Arabella to her brother. Hermes did not speak English well at all, he really didn't have too. Guys like that just have to smile and look good. They don't even have to shave or talk.
We looked at all the offerings, I selected a couple and asked what everyone thought. Xenia spoke up,
"It really doesn't matter what you look like, you're never going to see any us or any of these people again."
She hit me with a sobering thought right in the center of the Hippocampus located in the frontal lobe of the brain. It is where memories and events are stored. The reality of the situation hit home. She was right, her piercing blue eyes, her posture and telling face said it all. It was true. I was never going to see these people again, or experience this refreshing departure from my daily life. I would go back to my corner of the world with pictures, notes, stories and the memories filling my brain of beautiful people that offer welcoming love of hospitality and grace.
while I stood there, Arabella looked at me. My face must have noticeably changed. She asked
"Are ya, OK?"
"Yeh, I was just thinking, that in a few short hours, this adventure was gonna be over, and it will be true, I will never see any of you again."
"Don't think like that, Arabella said."
"Be in the present." Xenia said to me looking with those piercing eyes, turned soft and understanding how I was feeling as she put her hand on my arm.
None of that really made me feel better. I really wasn't sure that I wanted my stay to end. But I knew it had too. It didn't make me feel better but for the next hours I was going to do, or try to at least, just what Xenia said. "Be in the present."
"Here, go try these on, one of them will fit, you'll be "omorfos"." Arabella said as she smiled a kind smile using the Greek word for Beautiful. Xenia smiled too, but she knew that it would all end soon. From what I could tell, she wasn't happy either.
What did she see that I couldn't?
So, I picked a green and yellow Speedo, a sea shell design and one with the Greek Flag. Of course, the Greek Flag fit. Hermes said something in Greek. Xenia told me he didn't want me to go near the modeling school. Yeah, right. He was also going to go to the beach with us tomorrow, too. Good a diversion. Everyone will be looking at him and not at me.
We spent the balance of the evening sitting at the seawall, drinking Metaxa (a Greek brandy that if you're not careful, will knock you into next week). Telling stories and reminiscing of the week gone by as if we had all been here before. It turned out to be a late night when we all said good night. We had agreed to meet right back here at the seawall at 8AM. Arabella would drive us to the beach and Hermes would meet us there. I'm hoping that her car air conditioner was working.
As I walked back to my apartment, I was still curious why Xenia has this heavy weight hanging over her. I wish I could take some of the burden off of her. In all our conversations during the week, it never came out, or John being John... didn't hear it. Before I leave this Island, I need to know. Some questions that you may ask, you really don't want the answers to. But I had to know. she's too sweet to be that burdened, and I was getting to involved and I knew it.
***
The last day on Crete was going to be a memorable one for me and all the people on the beach. Me in my Speedo, should make the six o'clock news. That's why Hermes was gonna be there, to distract gawking beach goer attention. Well, that's how I had hoped it would work out. When Arabella and Xenia picked me up at the resort, I had all of my beach paraphernalia. Bottled Resort Branded water, resort towel, Greek Fisherman's hat, note pad, camera and sun tan lotion. Arabella had in the back of her SUV a beach chair for me and everyone else plus a cooler filled with water and fruit drinks. We were just going for the day, but we were prepared. Our ride to the beach was heaven on earth. I had never been in a Maserati Levante before. Quite the SUV for a waitress in a resort on Crete. Tips must be better than I thought? I had no idea that Maserati air conditioning, which has separate controls for the rear seat, has an artic blast setting, which I promptly set to blow directly on me. Arabella drove like the crazy woman of Crete. The only thing was, her SUV really could break the sound barrier. I think we made it to the beach in record time. I was amazed just how lucky Arabella was, she found a parking spot with direct beach access. Even at home, I can't find a spot like that. I attributed it to the time of day, it was only 8:45 in the morning, and we weren't the first beach goers of the day. I'm sure that we just hit it right to get a primo spot like that. It certainly made it easy to get on and off the beach with all of our stuff. My anticipated sun kissed carcass which I had hoped would have turned an stunning shade of olive tan under the sun of the Mediterranean, was transformed into a stunning shade of Maine lobster red. Chances of me ever fooling anyone that I come from Greece or even anywhere in the Mediterranean, were dashed.
After much coaxing, I finally mustered the courage to take off my white colored gauze beach shirt and khaki shorts to reveal my Greek flag Speedo. Much to my astonishment, no one on the beach cared, or even noticed. I was just another body on the beach. Hermes, on the other hand, sitting on the beach with two identical twin sisters attracted even more attention and the six o'clock news. The sisters alone had men stumbling over their feet and creating a disturbance that was obvious. This level of attention was common place for Hermes, Arabella and Xenia, they were used to it, I wasn't. We sat on the beach, going in and out of the water for most of the morning. Talking and reliving the week as if it were months ago and a unusual occurrence for the four of us to be together. It was a continuation of the time we had at the seawall last night. It was to be the first and only time the four of us would experience this.
I began to get really red and at the suggestion on Xenia, it was time to leave the beach and time for lunch. Hermes, had another modeling lesson that afternoon and would not be able to join us. He excused himself from our little group and was about to leave. I had told him that I would be seeing him in the morning to return the Vespa, Xenia translated that to him in Greek. Hermes, with a puzzled look on his face and in broken English looked at me and said that it was a pleasure to have met me, that he wished we had more time together and not to worry about the Vespa. I must have had the dear in the headlight look on my face, or something got lost in translation. He grabbed my hand, we shook, hugged and exchanged those European cheek kisses, said "ya" the informal way friend's part. As he was walking away, Xenia grabbed my arm and whispered in my ear
"Don't worry about the Vespa, we'll take care of it".
I turned and looked at her and said "But?"
"Stop. before you say anything, you will hurt his feelings and mine. We'll take care of it, it's just a Vespa."
I had no idea what to do or say to all that just transpired. I just stood there on the beach dazed.
Not knowing what to say or do, Xenia, Arabella and I started to gather our things and carry them back to Arabella's car. I was in front of the two of them and reached the car first. I turned and looked back. They were intently talking. Arabella looked up at me continued talking and tossed the keys. I opened the back hatch and started to load our things. everything was in its place in the back of the SUV. I gave the keys back to Arabella. I didn't even think about getting dressed for lunch until Arabella suggested that I might want to put a shirt and some pants on, good idea. Xenia was smiling and said something to Arabella in Greek. They had their beach robes on and looked perfectly presentable. Me on the other hand, well - Mature Audiences Only.
Before we got into the car, I was looking forward to that artic blast button, Arabella said to the both of us that she had to get back to the Resort and do something, what it was, I wasn't sure. Xenia gave her sister that European cheek kiss, then Arabella gave me the cheek kiss, and again another "ya". She hoped into her SUV, started it up, put the window down and left waving as she departed at the speed of light.
I looked at Xenia, still dazed
"How far are we from the Resort?"
"That's my car." Parked right next to where we were standing. As she pointed to a brown metallic Porsche Cayenna Turbo-GT. Now, I was sure I had the dear in the headlights look. She opened her door and unlocked the passenger door, and we both got in.
"Are you ready for lunch?" as she started the car.
"This was all planned?" I said to her.
I remember my mother telling me I was born at night, but I know it wasn't last night. I was starting to get confused more than I was. I wasn't sure who I was in the car with, who this woman was and what she had planned and most of all, why was I here? She backed out of the parking space, drove almost like a normal person. My apprehension level went up 100%. I was not really comfortable. As I buckled my seat belt, I looked over at her and spoke
"When are you gonna tell me what's going on, or is it gonna be a surprise too?"
"I have been trying to tell you all week. You were so excited to be here. I have never seen that in a person. When you turned my dinner invitation down earlier in the week, I was shattered. I had every intention of explaining to you why I am so obsessed and pre-occupied with what my family does and how I deal with them. I had little opportunity during the week. Arabella would call me each morning when you were on the patio for breakfast. That was so I could do my best to show up before you went out for the day and we could talk. But you always left before I could get there. That night we sat at the sea wall drinking Ouzo was the perfect time to talk, I tried, but you didn't hear me and again you were so relaxed and content and a little drunk. I didn't want to spoil the Crete experience for you, and I didn't know how to start the conversation or just how you would take it."
We pulled off the road into a parking area. Xenia turned in her seat and faced me. Hands in her lap, she continued with
"Greeks have a deep sense of family. It is driven into us from a very early age. My family as is almost all Greek families, a close-knit group of people bound by a tradition that goes back to the start of time and by our culture of rich tapestry woven from ancient traditions, Mediterranean influences and modern elements all bound up in our strong family relationships with a deep appreciation for the arts. And now my family, is all that I have now, and all that I love. The Katsaros family, my family is slowly fading away."
She went on to explain
"My father passed away four months ago. That's what is in the folder that I was reading the day we met. My father left a hand written note, his will telling us what to do and how he wanted to be remembered. I sat with him the day he died. I see his face every day. His last words to me, we will talk more tomorrow." She said to me as she started to cry real tears.
"I have been sad and lost this whole time, for months. I miss him and had more to say to him. My family, and you have met them all except for my mother, want me to guide the future of the Katsaros family. It is what my father wanted and he told me this. I'm not ready I don't know how to do what he did and I'm scared. My mother is heartbroken at the loss of my father. I can't get her out of her slump; I don't know how to give her hope for the future. She smoked for as long as I can remember as all Greeks do, she is very sick and requires constant care. She is dying, Arabella and Hermes refuse to see it or accept it. The original plan, and what my father wanted was for my mother to take over the family businesses, she can't do that. My father saw that. So, it was my pledge to my father that I would accept the mantel of our family and take over. What doesn't help is that Arabella wants to leave Crete, move to Athens and pursue a degree at university in engineering and architecture. My father wanted her to do that. She has the grades, the mind and we have the money for it and she wants to go, but will not go now without my mother's and my blessing. Hermes wants to be a model. My father bought him the Vespa dealership in hopes that he would stay on Crete. He is to good looking, and he knows it, for him to be content with Vespa's his whole life and to stay on the Island is not going to make him happy. He says he is doing well modeling. It is where his heart is. He should follow his dream. "
"It was because of you that I made a U-Turn in the intersection of the road to the Resort. It was because of you that I came back to the Vespas. Anyone willing to wait in a place where they have no idea what is going on is dedicated. I saw a determined man sitting at the door of the shop. When we finally met, as I walked into the store, I saw a compassionate man that I saw was a sign of hope for me. I foolishly believed that you were there with a purpose, which you were, but more than that, you were going to listen and see me for who I was. I scared and lost woman with no direction. I wanted nothing more from you except your friendship and your compassion. The other pleasures of life, I have plenty of. Every Greek woman is in search of her "David". I have that, as far as any common sense, well the two don't come in the same box. I can't count on him to give me any help or care about anything other than himself. From the moment I met you, I thought you were and still are worth my time."
I sat there for a minute thinking I didn't do anything other than be myself and asked her
"What are your dreams, Xenia, what do you want?"
Xenia went on talking, but I don't think I heard me or was even listening to much more that I had to say. This poor woman was lonely and in desperate need of someone to listen to her and assure her that everything was alright and it would be alright. I was hurt when she told me that there was someone that fulfilled her needs. To this day, I'm not sure why I was hurt. But I was, and still am.
The ties of the Greek family became clear as she explained her feelings. It was clear that she may have bitten off more than she could chew. None of it was impossible. She was not the first person to be in this situation, nor would she be the last. She accepted all of what she promised her father she would do when she said should would hold the family together. She didn't know where to begin or who to even ask for help and had no one to ask. Arabella and Hermes were not going to be any help here. A much as I wanted to be that person, I couldn't. I don't know how to do that, I couldn't even do it for myself let alone someone else. It would only lead us down a path of destruction and would not be healthy for either one of us. What she wanted would not be in her best interests, nor mine. It would not be fair to her with the job I have to be there for her today and gone tomorrow, literally. I did my very best to explain that, but I don't think it she really heard it or it registered with her. She never told me what it was she wanted, what was her dream.
Without much conversation, we drove back to the Resort and skipped our lunch. We said tearful good-byes under the portico of the Resort, exchanged addresses and phone numbers. I was almost sure that it was a formality, a nicety to exchange phone numbers and address. But I had that knot in the pit of my stomach that I would never hear from Xenia Katsaros again, and I wanted to.
It was still sweltering in the early afternoon. I took my new Greek flag Speedo, used only once on a Crete beach and spent the afternoon sitting in the kiddie pool behind my Ray Ban Wayfarer sun glasses and under my Fisherman's hat to cool off and reflect on the events of the day. There we moments, where I teared up, and I'm not even sure why, but inside I do. Because I liked Xenia, I was leaving, there was nothing I could do for her or sorry that it all happened? I'm sure it was pieces of those thoughts that clouded my mind.
Deep inside me, I want to believe that all of these cameos that happen through our lives, happen for a reason. I can't believe that this didn't have a reason or a purpose. At some point in my life before I leave, I'm guessing it will become clear. I'd like to know sooner than later. I know it did make me a better person, a more caring person a more compassionate person. somewhere the real reason will become clear.
I tried to eat a small dinner, but I really wasn't hungry and didn't eat most of it. I at by the seawall, trying to put myself in a frame of mind where I was excited about going home and completing my assignment of evaluating Crete as a seasonal route for my airline to pursue in the coming year. It wasn't working very well. How was I going to add this part of my week-long adventure to my report and make it sound like a great place to be? It just wasn't going to happen.
As the sun began to set, I rode my Vespa slowly down the gravel road one last time back to Hermes's store. I parked it in front of the door and put the key in the trunk with a small note attached to the little dash of the Vespa. that simply said "Thank you for Crete."
After cleaning the scooter as best I could, and nothing like what the Resort did daily, I walked back down the road to the Resort. I remembered just how long that walk was. But I wasn't carrying anything except the memories of the week and Xenia. The time alone was helpful to just let me think as I walked. As the sun was falling behind the White Mountains, and day was turning to night, the summer sky was changing from a mesmerizing scarlet sky to the dark purple of night.
***
It was so dam hot, my last night on Crete was a restless one. It was probably because of the heat, you would think. I wasn't sure, it mostly because of everything that happened in the last twenty-four hours. I wasn't over it, and wasn't gonna get over it soon. I was able to get into a better state of mind because I was going home. I did what I was supposed to do, survey Crete and overall, I really had a good time. I got up and went through my morning routine. I decided not to go down to the patio area for breakfast. I didn't want to run into Arabella which most surely would happen. By this time, she has probably heard what had transpired between Xenia and me. I didn't want to open that wound again today.
I figured that I had about two hours to get dressed, and leave before the checkout time at 10 O'clock and be at the airport to catch my flight. I finished packing up my stuff and putting everything in its place. I had a few minutes, so I decided to walk down to the Resort ice machine to get some ice for the bottled water I still had sitting in my apartment from the other day. When I opened the door, there were two notes, in envelopes sitting on the small table next to the door which held an excellent specimen of geraniums. The one note was in a small envelope, about the size of an index card. The other was a more "Official" looking note that was in a cream-colored Resort stationary envelope, with the resort logo foil stamped in the upper left corner with my name and room number typed on the face. I presumed that it was a copy of the charges for the week. I wasn't concerned, they had the company credit card, and I was very thankful for the summary of charges for my expense report.
I opened the official envelope first. It was heavy weight cream stationary with the Resort logo, and contact information stamped with copper foil. It was one typed line of text that said "Please see the proprietor before your departure today." I figured that this was the absolute last thing I was going to do. The Resort knew why I was there and I was positive that they wanted to put a bid in for their favorable recommendation to the airline travel group as a preferred place to stay on Crete. This has happened to me in other places around the world. I would take their promotional material and submit it with my final report to the company. As I have come to understand in previous dealings like this, the company already has planned negotiations with the resort or hotel sales office even before anyone sets foot on the property. I would just be the mule to bring sales information back. I really didn't mind. They usually included a hat and a t-shirt in the package...which never sees the company travel offices. I had every intention of suggesting this resort as a place to stay. Even though it was forty-five minutes away from the airport, I was also going to recommend the resort as the preferred crew over-night station.
The other note was more serious. It was from the company crew scheduling office. It was a little more detailed. My original flight that was leaving at noon from Heraklion International has been canceled. I was rescheduled on Flight 1642 that leaves at 6:30PM. I was flying from Crete to Athens, then to Frankfurt-Main to London, then on to Washington, DC. All the flight numbers, times and reserved passenger codes were included in the note that covered both sides of the card. They really wanted to get me home, no stand-by tonight, reserved business class seats. I really did win the lottery with these seats. So, I really had to make sure that I didn't lose this piece of paper. I spent the next ten minutes, copying all the information into my little notebook so there were no mistakes and I didn't lose the information.
Now, I had something to worry about - What was I going to do for the day. The last thing I really needed today was idle time, time to sit and think. I returned my Vespa, I was packed, I had my travel clothes on, now what? Over the week I was unsuccessful at talking with the front desk over the phone. Everything got lost in translation. I finished getting dressed, and walked up the main building to the front desk.
When I got to the main desk, a middle-aged man, the concierge was at the counter in a Resort uniform. How he tolerated the heat in that uniform, was beyond my level of understanding. I had talked with him earlier in the week and he was extremely helpful. I explained my predicament and asked if he could arrange for a late check out. As he explained to me, the Resort could not accommodate my request this day, at the last minute. He explained that the apartment has been booked in advance and the cleaning crew had to freshen it up and get it ready for the next guest. I did understand. I suggested that they check the air conditioner, which they did not appreciate that comment.
The concierge did offer the hotel amenities that I was welcome to use until it was time for me to go. That was the best option available. I just didn't want to run into Arabella or Xenia. My luck today was one of the days that she was going to help out at the resort. While I was walking back to my apartment, for a few minutes at least, I remembered that I have been in these situations before. I spend the day roaming the Resort and checking it all out, and playing in the game room, but only if it's air conditioned. It wasn't even 9:15 and the heat was terrible. I was already sweating and uncomfortable. When I got back to the apartment, I called the front desk hoping that the concierge would answer the phone. I have no idea who answered, but it wasn't him. I asked If the front desk could store my luggage until it was time to go, they had no problem with that.
I changed back into my beach ware, Speedo, gauze beach shirt, fisherman's hat, Olu Kai sandals and sun tan lotion. Packed up my luggage and took it to the front desk. The counter host gave me a receipt for my bag and I was now on my way to spending the day at the pool. I asked if there was a place to freshen up and change before I left for the airport. The hostess gave me a map and highlighted the route from the pool area to the shower facility for later in the day. I checked out and returned the apartment to the Resort. On the way to the pool and areas of the resort I had not seen during the week, I passed the game room that was not air conditioned. Well, it turns out that was not the place for me. When it's this hot this early in the day, I don't need to be inside. It was hotter in the game room than it was outside.
I was anxious about going to the patio by the pool. I didn't want to run in to Arabella, but I guess it's probably the best way to deal with everything, face it head on. Off to the patio I went. No one there looked familiar to me. In fact, I had not seen any of these people that were working before. I picked a table with an umbrella and set up shop. There I stayed for the majority of the day. Feet up on the chair until it got unbearable. Then I moved over to the caba area. I got as comfortable as I could, at least I was out of the sun. I think I sat through three shift changes. With each change of staff, they all checked on me to be sure that I had no needs. I was in and out of the kiddie pool all day to try and cool off. The temperature was so hot, the pool was like a hot tub. It was that hot. No towel was required; it was drip dry all day. The only good thing was when there was a breeze, which was very infrequent, it was cooling, but didn't last for long. Where's that artic blast button when you really need it.
Toward the end of the day, I started to get a little hungry. I had been mauling over in my mind what had happened. How did I misread everything; how did I get in this emotional mess? I couldn't find a good answer to give myself or get me through it. I ordered a sandwich from the patio bar. It was delicious, but I couldn't eat. It was too hot and I was too upset. I didn't know how to get over this feeling of not seeing this dear woman, Xenia, asking for help. I wasn't going to be able to help her, it just wasn't going to happen. I was sure that I would never find a way to explain this and come to terms with it in my own mind. I figured that I had spent enough time at the Resort which turns out to be a very lonely and desolate place when you have no one to talk to. I gathered my things and claimed my luggage, I was handed another type written note, "Please see the proprietor before your departure today." I had not forgotten, I was going to do that right after I cleaned up. I followed my map that the hostess had given me earlier in the day. The path lead through some of the well-manicured gardens and past the fountains at the resort. A sign in Greek pointed the way. The text on the sign matched what was on the map so I was sure that I was on the right path.
It was starting to become dusk and two simple lights marked the entrance, a golden glow from the setting sun complemented the minimal lighting in the hallway that led to the shower area. A yellow louvered door was open and I could hear water running. The small hallway was yellow stucco, and concrete floors painted a refreshing sage green. Lining the hallway on one side were simple lights. On the other side were changing rooms with louvered yellow doors, a basic wooden chair, mirror, white porcelain hook on the wall in each room, and a small counter under the mirror. The celling's were made of wooden rafters partially covered and painted white. The celling was open to the air and only partially covered. In the hallway was a table that held towels and a bin for the used ones. It dawned on me as I was making my way into the shower area that there was no distinction between man and woman. Only in America do we have a phobia about the human body and separation of changing rooms. Knowing I was never going to see anyone here again, and as hot and tired as I was, I picked a room, took my clothes off, took my towel and the small soap that was on the counter and went down the hall to the shower. As I entered the room, the showers were on and a comfortable temperature for being as hot as it was. There was a small six inch or so concrete curb separating two sides of the shower. The walls were tiled with yellow tiles and two lights lit the shower. There was a woman in the shower with her back to me. I quickly calculated that she may not notice me if I quickly take my shower. I couldn't take a shower fast enough, she turned around. It was Xenia, there on her left hip was a birth mark. I knew it was her. We looked at each other and her piercing blue eyes highlighted by the sun light raking over the rafters and showering her body with a golden aura was exactly as I pictured, she looked like.
She quickly grabbed her towel as I reached for mine. We each covered ourselves. I didn't know what to say. I asked her what she was doing here? Her reply was that sometimes she helps out at the resort, today she was the attendant in the guest shower. I apologized for all that had happened and I told her that I had hoped I would see her before I left. I cautiously stepped up to the curb, with my towel draped over me and with my left hand put it on the side of her face, leaned over and kissed her on her cheek and whispered to her, "I wish this had been a different time", then said "ya."
I got out of the shower without saying a thing, literally ran back to my changing room and dried off. As I was getting dressed, I had no idea what to do. I was gasping for breaths. I stood there for a minute and calmed myself. When I finally got control, I was curious why she didn't ask me why I was still at the Resort. I'm guessing that the shock and unexpected encounter of the whole thing, disrupted her thoughts. She didn't or wasn't able to ask.
Dam it, this is not how I wanted to say good-by to her.
***
After I dressed, I couldn't get out of there fast enough. I repacked my bag and was going to see the proprietor before I left for the airport. I had to continue to calm down. What just happened was not at all what I anticipated, or even wanted to happen. I just wanted to take a shower, clean up, go to the airport and go home. But I did want to see Xenia again. I really didn't know what I wanted.
As I left the shower, I started down the path. Part way down, upset and flustered, I sat on the small wall that separated the fountains from the path. I looked to the fountains for some quiet and peace to attempt to calm myself down and absorb what had just happened. I was deep breathing to try and slow my anxiety. My mouth was dry and I was uncomfortably hot, even after a shower. I pulled a bottle of water from my bag, which over the years I have learned to carry, for instant hydration. I'm glad I still had it. As I stood, I started to walk back to the office area, a little calmer now but, still seeing what had happened in my mind's eye and reflecting. Where is she, where did she go? I have to see her before I leave the resort and Crete. Nothing but my thoughts were racing through my head. I didn't know what to do or think. I have never been this lost, that I can remember. I gulped the water down, tossed the empty bottle in the trash and made my way to the Resort offices. Hoping that I would calm and not look like a crazy person. When I finally found my way to the offices, the air conditioning was working here. it was very comfortable. I stood at the entrance to the office area for what seemed as minutes, but really was only seconds. Enough for the receptionist to take notice. I announced myself and the receptionist stood with a smile, calmy and welcomingly said
"We have been expecting you, please have a seat in the office. The owner will be right with you."
"Thank you."
I entered the office which was a well-designed space with a floor to ceiling tinted glass wall that over looked the Resort patio area and looked out to the Aegean Sea. The wall was flanked with beige curtains. The furniture was modern and tasteful. The owner had a comfortable space with a desk made from Cyprus, I think, stained with a golden hue and a semi-matt finish. The desk had brushed stainless steel legs. Behind the desk, a credenza of the same design. The desk chair was a rolling, ergonomic chair covered in copper colored rich leather. The desk was adorned with a telephone, blotter, computer terminal and brass desk lamp on the opposite side of the desk. The credenza had an array of AHAVA products on a copper tray on one side, files on the other in an oak box with Resort branded bottles of water next to it. A bouquet of native flowers in a low black and copper vase was centered on the credenza. I now had my answer as to what hand lotion the staff used to keep their skin so soft.
The floor was carpeted with a high pile, tight weave multi tone area rug that was various shades of copper, sage, and blue. Very well done and I'm sure very expensive. Beneath the area rug was an exquisitely finished Cyprus wood floor, with inlaid mahogany strip following the perimeter of the room. The wall opposite the desk had a sofa that was colored the same as the desk chair. A coffee table that looked exactly as the desk and credenza sat in front of the sofa on a smaller area rug, flanked by a brass floor lamp. There were two classic Chippendale cloth wing chairs on the opposite corners of the coffee table, facing the sofa. On the coffee table was another tasteful arrangement of native fresh flowers in a black low vase. The air conditioning in here worked, and it worked well; it was very comfortable.
The walls were painted a mink grey, except for one wall to the left of the desk. It was papered in a copper, cream and an olive tanned brown design very elegantly made. Adorning the walls of the high ceiling space were paintings which I recognized as Claude Monet paintings. They fit the design and the space perfectly. Everything fit and looked as if it all belonged and was comfortably situated.
I sat in the wing chair closest to the door. Not thinking, I had my back to the door, which was not very professional, or considerate of me as a guest. I sat there for a bit, looking at my watch and starting to become concerned that as I re-enter the working world, I was gonna be rushing to check bags, get to gates and board flights. But the seats were reserved and I really had nothing to worry about. it was just me trying to take my mind off of everything. I really just wanted to leave and be on my way so I could put the memories of the week in my past. It was stressful enough that I would have to write a description of the week's discoveries.
I heard the door open, I stood and turned to the sound of the door. Xenia?
Still dying her hair from the shower, she walked in and moved toward the Cyprus desk. As she passed me, she turned and smiled. I couldn't believe it. She was the Owner of the Resort? She was wearing a burnt orange pants suit with gold accessories and a black waste band with a gold buckle. A gold chain with a large tsavorite green emerald flash sunset pendant that had opal and diamond inlays hanging around her neck. Her outfit matched her skin, style and phlegmatic personality precisely. She is a very elegant woman, an expensive woman, a stable woman, but most of all she is a kind, loving and peaceful woman.
"I'm glad you stopped by before you left. That little encounter we had a few minutes ago was not planned, I had no idea you would be there."
Stunned, and not really knowing what I was saying
"I'm glad it happened, too."
"I'll bet you were" she said as her head was tilted down and those blue eyes focused on me looking up as she was rubbing and drying her hair with one of the towels from the shower. She had a sheepish, but welcoming and loving smile on her face.
"I was afraid I wasn't going to see you before I left."
"Well, you saw me, all of me." As we both chuckled.
"I sent you that note, earlier. I really had nothing in particular to talk about, I just wanted to see you again before you left Crete.
"I wanted to see you, too."
Do you have a moment for a little Ouzo before you go?"
Calmly, I said
"Yes, I do. I wouldn't miss it."
Looking at me piercing right to my core, she responded
"Hum."
I thought to myself, that probably wasn't the right thing to say.
"Don't worry about getting to the airport, I will have one of our courtesy cars take you." as Xenia pushed a button on her desk. A few seconds later a waiter came in wearing a crisp resort uniform with a tray holding two drinks and a small bottle of Katsaros Ouzo. He put it on the coffee table.
"Please, sit."
She motioned to the chair that I was standing in front of. She then took the two glasses from the tray
"You never told me you were the Owner of the Resort."
I said to her with a questioning look on my face as she walked around to the sofa and sat in front of me. She offered me one of the glasses.
"...and the Vespa Dealer, and the restaurant we ate at, and other places that you haven't seen. This is the... this is my Katsaros family business."
"I had no idea."
"I know you didn't. That was planned... on my part. I didn't want you to have any other opinion of me other than, just me."
She looked directly at me. Then said as she looked away,
"The fish have already escaped the net; it doesn't matter now."
Xenia said as she looked out the window wall toward the ocean with a distant stare.
Turning back at me, sat on the sofa as she poured the Ouzo into our glasses, we taped our glasses and drank. I was going to have to leave, she felt it. Xenia, looked up at me.
"May I have my courtesy car take you?"
I paused in my response
"No, I appreciate the offer, but I think it best that I make this trip on my own."
We both stood. I put the glass down on the coffee table, as did she. I looked at her, she walked around the table and put her arms around me and we kissed. When Xenia kissed my lips, I realized that she had kissed my heart. We held each other for another moment. I leaned back and ran my hand through her still moist hair. I looked directly into her now soft blue eyes. Words were not spoken, we were connected. We continued to look at each other, then both said "ya" to each other at the same time, and smiled. I kissed her again on the cheek. Still looking into here mysterious blue Aegean eyes,
"I said it to you before, I wish this had been a different time."
"I know, John. Mee too."
as her voice trailed off and her eyes moistened.
I asked Xenia, if she would mind if I took one of the bottles of water from her credenza.
"You don't have to ask."
She turned and walked to the credenza, took a bottle of water and handed it to me. I stuffed int in my bag.
I looked at her again for a long moment, then said
"Thank you."
She closed her eyes, dipped her head, looked up again, smiled, and I was off.
***
Heraklion International Airport is a busy airport. People always coming and going. I found my way to the ticket counter, on the departure level. Checked in and was making my way to the Business Class lounge. The flight from Crete to Athens was a short one, but I figured after being emotionally scared, that I would take full advantage of the generosity of the company that gave me a week in Crete.
All checked in and with a bit of time to spare, actually, more time to think. I was walking through the terminal toward security; I saw a sign that directed the interested to the Katsaros Art Gallery. I stopped for a second in the middle of the hall and said to myself, could this be? it's the same Family name? It must be a common name here on Crete, but being a small island, probably everyone was related. I walked around to the entrance into an art gallery. Facing me was a family portrait of the Katsaros Family. There was the whole family, Mr. & Mrs. Katsaros, Arabella, Hermes and Xenia. Next to the painting was a brass plaque engraved in Greek. I'm guessing thanking the family for their contribution to the cultural development of Crete, Greece and all the travelers that visit the Gallery.
I was speechless. I made my way to the lounge, sat and stared out the observation window at the tarmac watching the planes. It was where I belonged. I was thinking of all that had occurred and replaying the week in my head. I really wish I could have helped; I wish it had been a different time. Good things happen to good people. I'm know she will find the happiness and everything else she is looking for, needs and deserves. I just wasn't sure how I was going to survive.
For so many reasons, it was time for me to go.
***
Six months later...
It was coming up on route bid time and the company did announce that starting this summer, it would be offering seasonal routes to Crete. All that happened because of the other "Travel Testers" that spent a week in Crete, myself included. Our work lead to a new and different way the company explores potential new routes and places that the airline would offer. I had won another company sponsored lottery. I turned it down and passed it on to another. I never was a "Travel Tester" again. I couldn't do it again.
On bid day, I submitted my bid for Crete. The only problem was that it was scheduled to leave from New York. That meant I would either have to move to New York - JFK, or commute, if I won the bid. I thought about it and decided that I would commute to JFK.
A day later the route list was distributed, I had won the bid. I held that line, New York - JFK to Crete for the next five years. Three times a month, I found myself on the Island of Crete. My commute to JFK, took me through mid-town Manhattan where I saw Hermes every time I passed through the City. He graced the largest billboard in Times Square for Calvin Kline and again in London on the Giorgio Armani billboard at Heathrow. I'm guessing he passed his final test at the modeling school. Our crew base in Greece was Athens, not on Crete. It was one of my disappointments of the route. Over the years I learned my way around Athens. On one of my last trips, I went to the Parthenon during its recent rehabilitation, to see its progress. I found a small sign hanging of the fence around the construction area that caught my eye. It said A. KATSAROS Architectural Engineering Company, Athens & Crete. Arabella had found her dream.
When I was in Crete over the years, I tried every time and every way to find Xenia. The resort was over forty-five minutes away from the airport and I just couldn't get there. I called, left her countless messages, sent cards and notes, even flowers on her birthdays and all the other holidays, but no answer. As I've always said, some questions you really don't want 'a have answers to. This was one of them.
I know in my heart that the years have treated her well. I know happiness and everything else she wanted from life found a loving home in Xenia. The determined woman she is, I know, has found her way on that small island.
7 years, 4 months, 22 days later, My Greek adventure was over.
***

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