Accents sub-List (Clothing)

This is my Accents sub-list from my "Clothing/Materials Reference (Full List)" . The intention of this list is as a creative writing reference, but if it helps for other projects, that's ok, too.

Breaking this list out of the main list should make it easier to search for items under the identified topic separated out from the main list. Other clothing/materials items should be referenced from the main list or from their individual breakdown category. This list is comprehensive, but incomplete as to all known fabrics and textiles. (Reference sites at the end.)

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New words since last update:
         Hank (refer "Yarn" below)
         Skein (refer "Yarn" below)

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Accents – decorator techniques dyed, sewn or woven in as part of the garment or on the body

- Clavil – a U-shaped yoke (collar attachment)

- Collar – garment piece that goes around the neck and sometimes extending down the front of the garment

- Crenellate – one of a series of rounded or squared projections (or the notches between them) formed by curves along an edge (as the edge piece of cloth or leather)

- Cuff – a fold or band at the end of a sleeve encircling the wrist (with or without fasteners)

- Darts – slim folds in clothing to enhance or tailor the body to make the garment more form-fitting

- Decoration/pattern
         o Checks – checkered (chequered), continued squarish design
         o Diaper – [circa 1300-50] diaper cloth; diaper pattern (Middle Ages for weaving silk and gold; an ornament-like pattern);
         o Dots – circular (spherical) design
         o Floral
         o Logo (images)
         o Natural
         o Paisley
         o Plaid
         o Solids
         o Stripes
         o Text
         o Tie-dye
         o Wavy lines

- Drapes – permitting the fabric to fall in folds over the body

- Down – feather filling within items such as parkas

- Eyelets – small decorative or functional "holes" finished with thread or metal rings usually for permitting strings through, often left open for show, especially if the garment is covered all over with them

- Flap – a flat, usually thin piece attached at one side, used to cover or protect (i.e a flap over a pocket)

- Floss – embroidery thread

- Fray (fraying) – usually undesired tattered edges of fabric or a garment

- Frills (frilly) – fluffy with ruffles

- Fringe – close, dangling strings for decoration

- Flounce – a strip of material gathered or pleated, attached at one edge with the other edge loose or hanging: used for trimming, as on the edge of a skirt or sleeve or on a curtain, slipcover, etc. Ruffles

- Gathers (gathered) – small pleats or drawing the material tightly together to provide a sense of fullness to a skirt, sleeves or other parts of garments

- Gousset (also gusset) – "sections of mail covered parts of the body that were not protected by steel plate" (Wikipedia)

- Hem – fold of material sewn along an edge to keep a garment from fraying increasing the longevity of the garment while providing a pleasing aesthetic quality

- Inseam – seam along the internal length of the pants

- Inset – "a piece of cloth or other material set into a garment, usually as an ornament panel"; "to set in or insert, as an inset: to inset a panel in a dress" http://dictionary.reference.com/

- Lace – a netlike material, usually semi-sheer, in either a plain or highly decorated stitchery of geometric or floral and other designs

- Lacings – strings used to gather and tie off other garment items (i.e. footwear, corsets, shirts, nightwear, etc.)

- Loop – a rounded item usually of wrapped cord or thread used to decorate or secure other garment items; the shape shoestrings make when tied properly

- Needlework
         o Crochet – (circa 1840 to present) needlework done by using a needle with a small hook drawing the thread through interlocking hooks; a means of making lace and tapestry
         o Embroidery – elaborate stitchery (origins unknown, goes into near pre-history) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Embroidery
          Cruel (also crewel, crewel, croole, croul) – (circa 1485) a worsted yarn for embroider and edging; tight decorative stitching
          Shisha embroidery, or mirror-work – (Hindu) (13th century) a type of embroidery which attaches small pieces of mirrors reflective metal to fabric. (Shisha = Persian for "Glass").
          Needlepoint – (circa 1690) embroidery done on a canvas with even stitches; a means to make lace
          Whitework embroidery – (circa 1860) the stitching is the same color as the foundation material the pattern is sewn on
         o Knit – (circa 1350) using interlocking loops of yarn to create a fabric, garment
         o Latch Hook – uses a needle similar to crochet to run a needle through a yarn loop pile "hooking" it to an even base to create a rug
         o Quilting – (circa 1605) stitching together many pieces into a mosaic of fabric and padding to create a covering (blanket)

- Netting – lace, may be fine, medium or wide open weave depending on its use, may also be plain or highly decorated

- Padding – fluffy inner lining for quilting and other garment uses

- Plait – a braid

- Plastron – a broad piece of material on the chest of military uniforms held together by rows of buttons; inset (circa 1840-1915)

- Pleats – fabric folded together for doubling

- Pocket – small pouch affixed to the garment for holding items or for appearance

- Quilting – internal padding, or external blanket of many pieces

- Ruff – (16th – 17th centuries) a collar of lace, lawn or the like, gathered or drawn into deep, full, regular folds used to keep the doublet from becoming soiled and is interchangeable for laundering.

- Ruffle – to draw up (cloth, lace, etc.) into a ruffle by gathering along one edge

- Smocking – garment gathers to enable stretching

- Stays – lengths of usually whalebone or heavy nylon strips used to shape and stiffen a bodice (corset, waist cincher, bra, etc.)

- Stitch – securing and/or decorative thread for styling garments; action: stitching, sewing

- Tape (also Bias Tape)– used to make seams orderly and tidy or to add a mild stiffness to seams, hems, cuffs, collars, etc.

- Thread – (refer "Yarn" sub-listing below) a fine cord of fibrous material used to weave fabric or stitch fabric together to create or decorate garments

- Ties – to fasten or secure with cord, material, rope, straps, etc. often found along the arms, legs, wrists, front of a bodice or shirt

- Train – the long trailing edge of a gown often a few inches to several feet

- Trim – a seam finish, whether orderly or ornamental

- Tucks – to make one or more folds in material; to secure seam edges in upon itself to create a hem

- Twist – intertwined threads or strands, plait, wind, coil

- Weave – to interlace thread, fibers, yarns, strips so as to form fabric or material; the in and out direction of some patterns

- Welt
         o strengthening ornamental finish along a seam of a garment with a strip of cord or tape
         o a strip of leather ornamenting a shoe

- Yarn – heavy thread used for knitting and weaving
         o Hank – [circa 1440] a skein, as thread or yarn; a measure of thread or yarn
          -- Cotton: 1 hank = 840 yards or 770 m
          -- Spun silk (made from short lengths of waste silk): 1 hank = 840 yards or 770 m
          -- Linen: 1 hank = 300 yards or 270 m
          -- Worsted yarn (made from combed fibre): 1 hank = 560 yards or 510 m

         o Skein – (textile references only) [circa 1400-50] (Middle English skeyne or skayne) a length of yarn or thread wound about a reel or prepatory used in manufacturing; anything wound or resembling a coil as a coil of yard, thread, hair, etc.

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"Main References List" 

References for more:
Basic Medieval Patterns http://www.ece.uwaterloo.ca/~arnora/arnora/costumehdbk.htm
Clothing Definitions Database for the Clothing Industry http://www.apparelsearch.com/Definitions/Definition_List_Clothes.htm
Fabric List/Definition http://phrontistery.info/fabric.html
Medieval Clothing: A Primer http://www.mercwars.com/garbglossary.shtml
The Renaissance Tailor http://www.vertetsable.com/research_vocabulary.htm
Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Main_Page