Wanderlust : Kashmir

We were looking for a trek in Kashmir. The Amarnath yatra was about to start. My friend kapil suggested us that we make use of this opportunity.

In the year 2013, came the grand turning point of my life with my first ever long trek to Amarnath via Baltal route. I probably can never describe in words what that feeling was. That 16 kilometers trek was unbelievable. I was fit and strong, but soon I hit the high altitude and after 8 kilometer up trek killed my stamina to an extent where I could not walk up the without going breathless and I decided that from here I will hire a horse for the uphill journey to the holy cave. But that was huge mistake!

Discussing with my two other friends and they were equally tired and breathless. But they had decided that they will climb. Hat’s off to them!

Till then I don’t believe in God or any supernatural sort of things. I was not too religiously inclined. But going to Kashmir that to be my two best friends and seeing the ice Shivling; the world’s most natural ice stalagmite excited me. I had no idea that from this place my soul will connect to almighty lord.

And that moment came and there was no limit to our happiness. After all we had been waiting for this trip for last 3 months. The excitement of pre travel departure was amazing. We gathered together in Delhi railway station in the afternoon. One more friend joins us, we call him Negi. He came to the station to see us off.

It was about 1 o’clock in the afternoon. The heat was at its peak and there was no hope of rain.
My stomach was telling me that breakfast had been a long time ago. Normally when we gathered somewhere, we go for a beer, it’s our ritual. Rajeev said it’s too hot yaar, let’s go and have some beer as we have enough time to catch the train. Immediately without wasting time, we went to a pub in Connaught Place. Ordered chilled beer and some snacks as well. Time flew so fast and didn’t realize that we had 30 minutes left to catch the train. Quickly, we booked an auto and reached station just on time. We got settled in our compartment. Finally, we said bye to Negi…will meet you soon my friend!

We were having fun, sharing old memories of Pune where we all met during our MBA. We laughed so much and our cheeks turned red. Meanwhile, Kapil showed us something important. Rajeev and I got astound. I can’t tell you the secret but yes we took his class properly…Anyways!

Reached at Jammu Station in the morning around 5:30 am. We were looking for ATM counter as we were heading towards the remote area and we need cash. All the ATM counters near station were shuts then we walked up in the city. After few Kilometer of walk we found one ATM counter and came to the Taxi stand. Finally, booked the cab till the Amarnath route.

Our actual plan was to take Pahalgam route via Anantnag and so on. Our first halt was in Sonamarg where we spent good evening there. The memories of this place bring the big smile to my face. I was completely blown away by the beauty of this place. The changing weather further adds to the mystery of ‘what’s next?’ White beauty of Glacier Mountains and green meadows on the bank of the Sindhu River were soothing to our eyes. There were several shops which providing overcoats, hand gloves, woollen caps, boots etc. on a rental basis for people who were interested in trekking. Suddenly it was drizzling; we started moving forward towards the wooden row houses which were built to stay. I suggested, let’s stay here for an overnight. We enquired in the office but tariff was quite high. After that we had some snacks bread pakora with tea. I am just recapitulating the excitement we had while proceeding to this place. During our journey I noticed one thing that Kashmir is beautiful but the people here are as beautiful as Kashmir.


During the scenic journey from Jammu via Sonamarg till Amarnath, we didn't realize that we were going on the wrong direction. Driver took a wrong route instead of Pahalgam, he drove towards Leh road.
Army stopped our car in the evening around 7pm for their daily routine check-up. They asked us where are we going, replied to them that we are going to Amarnath. They asked us which route you guys are following. Rajeev replied that Pahalgam route. Army person said you are on the wrong way, this road goes up to the Leh. Either you can go back to Pahalgam or take a Baltal route which is few kilometers from here.

Discussing with driver finally we agreed upon that will take Baltal route. Army again checked our bags and identity cards in the entrance of the Baltal basecamp. After crossing the check point area, we stood there, few minutes later; heard bell ringing sound. We saw that two tall guys are coming from other side of valley, wearing traditional cloths like Afgani people along with two horses. Somewhere on the back of my mind I was thinking, this place looks like an Afghanistan, although we haven't been there but still! It was such a beautiful and diverse feeling there. We feel privileged to live in such a beautiful country.
Reached Baltal base camp and saw there were many tents scattered for pilgrims to stay, ranging from 200 Rupees to 500 Rupees. We hired entire big camp in rupees 500 with thick gaddas and pillow with lots of blankets. Thanks to Rajeev. He is good in that.

Luckily, we got the satellite phone as there was no network at that time. Near to our camp, river Lidder was flowing with full of glory. We could hear the sound clearly from our tent. Wondering what if in the night river's velocity got increased by higher water, as we went there during the rainy month of August. As if we care, instead of thinking that, we did lots of fun. Rajeev as usual made a short mobile video.

At 10:30 pm, we went outside for dinner. Luckily, found lots of lungar stores (free food provider). We ate rice and kadi then few minutes of walk with cigarettes. Suddenly we felt that the wind was blowing cold which indicating us that we were in the place of good height.
After stretching the long hours and sitting in the car since morning. We got tired and fall asleep.

In the morning around 4:30 am, our camp boy knocks. Get up guys…be ready for the Yatra.
And from here our exciting struggle starts right from the bathroom. There were two temporary toilets placed there but we couldn't use it because they were too clean and smell free!
Rajeev and I had decided let's go near to the river field. I don't have to elaborate this situation;

Being an Indian you guys are intelligent enough. "Yes we sat and did"

But when it came to the cleaning part water was like snow. We were not being able to dip our hand into the river water. But somehow we managed it.
During the process of all this, Rajeev did something. He brought a special torch or flash light which is used by army or some forces during the emergency. He switched on that light and swinging his hand here and there. Luckily, there was no army battalion posted there. Thank to Shiv, because of his extraordinary action. Interestingly, he was explaining all these things to me after knowing the consequences. We laughed so much...O man! Can't forget such beautiful moments.

Came back to our camp and packed our bags. We had tea and biscuits and entering toward the most beautiful yet dangerous route. Among us, Rajeev thought he is fit and he carried out bagpack on his shoulder. In that bag, we had kept our rain coats, cameras, medicines and some dry fruits.
First lap came where we had to climb the steep mountain. That was our first huddle and we were all set to cross that challenge. I read it somewhere that overconfidence will drown you in the sea of reality. In the excitement we climbed that steep mountain without taking any halt. As soon as we reached there and saw each other, we understood how fit we were? And realized that journey would be tough from here. Few minutes later some people were saying there is a way from this side and pebble stairs as well. We looked each other’s face again and self-analyzed ourselves and suddenly a sound emerges from our heart, i.e. “O” (ओ).
Actually that sound was telling us that you guys did a fantastic job. We were in place of Shiva and expecting “OM” sound but due to our extraordinary effort we heard “O” sound (sarcastically).

Rajeev told us, I cannot carry this pack anymore. It seemed that he needed some help. Kapil and me looked his face and laughed. Kapil was telling him in Hindi.

“कौन बोला था तोके, कमांडो बनकर सामान उठाने को”

It means, who told you to become a commando and take up the luggage. Later he realized that he did a big mistake and then we hired one pony to carry our luggage. I can’t forget his facial expressions. To think of all those moments, still brings laughter in my face.

Frankly speaking, In the Baltal route the trek was fairly steep. The width of the pebble (Kachha Pathar Rasta) trek was a bit narrow; moreover, there were some steep rises and falls on the way as compared to the Pehalgam route. It is advised that only the very fit person should go and come back the same day after trekking for 32 Kilometers distance. But it’s not possible I guess!

I looked up the sky; weather was cloudy and it was not a good sign for us because we were climbing on the steep mountain. After few hours of climb a sharp lightning shines and clouds thunders. Rain starts; we immediately wear our rain coats and put all the cell phones and camera inside the bag. Rain had made the surface slippery and we kept walking. The phones weren’t working either. Yes it was a not good sign though!

We reached at the point where it mentioned in the sign board “Go Slow”. I saw, Army people were standing on the edge of trek with long poles and carrying AK-47. They were looking up toward the valley. I asked them what happened, they said be careful on this route. It’s a landslide prone area.

I started walking slowly watching the valley above. Kapil and Rajeev went far ahead of me. I was busy in clicking photographs. Ahead of me, a lady was sitting on a horse. Suddenly we heard stone falling sound and that stone was falling towards us. Army and few people around us were saying that run away from here. I was standing still and looking above. I saw that a big stone was falling and it’s going to other direction but suddenly, the stone collapses in the rock and falls on us. Luckily I got saved myself but unfortunately that big stone hits horse head. Somehow we saved that lady but unfortunately horse died. The horse owner was crying badly and he was kept saying that horse was like his son. I lost my son that was a tear jerking moment for us. That lady was in the shock, couldn’t believe that she is alive. She was standing still and looking here and there. During this, Kapil and Rajeev were shouting on me and sayings Viku come fast. After seeing this entire thing, I thought let's go back from here. No more trekking on this route and I just turned back. Suddenly I sensed something inside my heart, Again I turned back!
We trekked almost 8 kms. Our hearts were beating loud and breathless, stopping after every 5 to 6 steps. The trail was full of mud after the rain but on the other side was great scenery.
During the trekking, I noticed that people were very excited and happy. After all Amarnath Yarta is a life time journey for them as well as for us. We had covered almost a good distance and we were not in the condition to experience anything than lack of energy. We forgot there, what was messy and what cleaner whenever we saw something to sit, we used to sit down for sometimes.
Asking people who were coming from other side, how far is the cave from here? Getting the same reply every time, “It’s just a few Kilometers away”. We got fed up!

Some people were on the Paalki’s and on the horses rather than on their feet. Whenever we hear the sound of “Ghoda lelo… Ghoda bolo”. My heart says “Le lete hai yaar”. I had decided that will hire a horse from here for onwards journey. I didn’t have any regrets or any shame.

After 15 minutes, my horseman took another route. I asked him, why are we moving to this direction? He told me Bhai Sahab, Due to rain Army advised us to use this route for all horse and pony riders. I said okay! That route was actually dangerous and beautiful too.

Weather clears a bit as we climb higher. Rain water was flowing from the mountain and that track was hardly 2 meters long. There was a point where I had to climb a steep mountain and my horseman said in Hindi – “tight hokar baithna, ghoda chadd jayega aaram se upper”. After 2-3 attempts, the horse foot was sleeping from the track due to heavy slush. He couldn’t climb up with lots of loads. I told him that I am getting down but soon I realized that there was no space left on this track. On my right huge rugged mountain standing tall and on my left there was deep ditch but finally I managed myself. That guy was taunting me “Tum Darti”, I said “Yes Main Darti”and from this point I started chanting "Shiv Shiv Shiv". All of sudden, I realized that I am chatting Shiva’s name. With name of Shiva, I reached Brari Top at 4300m, maybe the highest point of the Amarnath yatra trek. Here my horse journey had completed.

After that I reached Sangam Point. There I approached a guy who was selling Prasad in his tent. I asked him, two of my friends coming from other direction. How long can I expect them to come here? He said it will take time, you can wait here. I had been waiting for them from last 2 hours. Then I saw them and raised my hand. They were not in the condition to speak anything. Tiredness was clearly visible on their face. They relaxed here for half an hour. Later onwards we reached entrance point of Amarnath cave. Few beautiful icy steps lead to the holy cave, security check at the entrance. Cameras, bags, mobiles etc. were not allowed with the pilgrims and were kept by the security personnel. After check point we took off our shoes started jumping on the icy stone. It's was difficult to walk on the snow. We were not able to stop our laughter and using every bench where we rested after every 5-6 steps.

When we entered in the holy cave, whatever was feeling before entering the cave like fatigue and tiredness was entirely vanished. That felling was so pure. The natural ice Shivling inside the cave has melted few inches. Normally when you go such holy places people has long wish list, so do I. But when I reached there and saw the Shivling. I couldn’t speak, not a single word. Suddenly my eyes got wet and a sense of realization; in which I saw my entire life journey so far, good/bad everything. That was an unbelievable feeling. I am sure others may have felt this too.

There was tight security inside the cave too. Some pandits were explaining the history and significance of the cave to others. After darshan we were happy but at same time tired too. Thinking about the basecamp. How would we go back because of time constraint? Evening has come to an end and there was no energy left in our body. We were walking down and realized that it's not safe at all to go down at this time.
Amarnath yatra is a yatra about humanity where you can see the brotherhood of Hindus and Muslims. Where all the pilgrims are Hindus and all the supporting hands are from Muslims.
They provides you accommodation, food, transport everything although, I am not religion centric. Seeing our situation, Locals suggested us to stay over here in our tent because it would be danger going down till basecamp. Track conditions were harsh and slippery, as we guys were not familiar with route.

That night we stayed in tent. Entire tent was placed on snow which we realized later. Inside the tent there was no light as we were on lonely land. But somehow we managed through the mobile torch. That night, cold was on extreme side. We had very limited supply. We had been climbing since morning as result our clothes went all wet. The problem was that if the clothes were changed then we did not have any more clothes. So we were on the big dilemma. What do to do that to be in windy and cold night? We decided that we had to change our clothes otherwise it will lead to some problem. So we placed rubber rope inside the camp and put all the wet cloths.

We were sitting in the tent just like a Naga Baba. The only difference was, instead of langot we had underwear. We managed 10-15 minutes till our body was warm but after that we were shaking, then me and Kapil wear the jacket immediately but Rajeev's jacket was wet. By god grace we had sufficient blankets inside the tent. But Rajeev's condition seemed bad. The tent guy came inside and saw our condition. He said, don't worry I can manage one woolen sweater for him. I asked him do you have some lantern because our phone battery was dying. He said, give me some time. His tent was few minutes away from our tent. He came with one woolen sweater and carrying tea kettle. A smile comes back to our face.

It was 9 o'clock in the evening and we were hungry too. We ordered 3 plates of Maggie which cost us 70 rupees per plate. After eating Maggie, it was time for tea which made from Yak milk. But as soon as we took a sip, we left because of its creamy smell. After a while talking we were lying down. We all had 3 set of quilts in which we had given an extra quilt to Rajeev as he was down with fever. But he is tough guy, he managed somehow.

We were unable to sleep properly because the cold wind was passing near the edge of tent. We put our bags and wet cloths all in the edges. That tent was not a Swiss kind of tent. It was just on temporary basis. About 11 o'clock in the night we hear a crying loud sound from outside. It seemed like some lady is crying. We were half asleep. Rajeev taunts kapil that who is crying out side, please have a look. Kapil went out to find that lady. After 20 mins he came in the tent. In the cupid voice he said it’s very cold outside and he was shaking badly. After some time, when he able to catch the breath properly, explained the story that there was lady who forgot her path and he guided her to find the correct path. He sent her to the army camp and while talking we fell asleep.

In the morning, we hear the voice of pilgrims. Morning was so pleasant and Rajeev's condition was good. We both went out to see the morning of the mountain. White snow covered the entire valley. It was difficult to climb/walk on the snowcapped path.
We clicked some memorable photographs. After that we wrap our bags and proceeded toward our basecamp. It was a wonderful journey. It felt good after reaching the basecamp. We did some shopping. Finally booked our cab and started journey towards Gulmarg as we had enough days in our hand.

As we were moving towards Gulmarg, one more thought came to our mind. Rajeev told me that can we go for Leh? As we were on the same route and there was no time constraint. But after calculating the budget, we decided that we will stick to our old plan. As soon as we reach the National Highway, some Army personnel stopped our car and instructed us that we cannot go ahead to this direction because someone has shot and local people went crazy. Heavy stone pelting was going on that direction. They had declared 144, that time we realized that we are in Kashmir. Because here situation cannot remains same. We asked our driver, is there any other way to go there? He said don't go, situation is bad. He suggested us that we can go to Srinagar-Dal Lake.

We stayed near Dal Lake. After getting fresh, we went outside to see the Jewel crown of Kashmir and started roaming around the lake. Few minutes of walk, I saw one Paanipuri (gol-gappa) wala standing near the boat house club. I asked Rajeev, Am I seeing correctly? Paani-puri wala in Kashmir that to be in dal lake area? We laughed together. We were curious to know about the fact that Kashmiri also likes paani-puri. I thought; let's taste the paani-puri from Kashmir. We were having the gol-gappa and I pushed Rajeev “Abe pooch Na, Is he from Kashmir?"
Rajeev smiled, He asked him "Bhai sahab aap yahi se ho kya? He replied are nahi bhaiya hum Bihar se hu”. Rajeev bolta hai bataiye, Aap log kaha kaha nahi hai "Yatr-Tatr-Sarvatra". He was a jolly and nice chap. He made our evening. We laughed so much.

After that we immediately hopped onto the shikara and started the round of Dal Lake. The lake with its clear water and breathtaking mountains in the background gives an exhilarating experience. The floating restaurant, floating market and vegetable gardens are a treat to watch.

A must see place for anyone coming to Srinagar. No wonder it is called the most beautiful place in the Earth. Our boat was floating smoothly and the voice of Ajan (prayer) was making that evening sweeter. We were lost in the beauty of DalLake. Then suddenly a voice comes in that quiet moment "Aye Uncle…wo Taj hotel hai na Taj” And that was Kapil's voice. Me and Rajeev looked at each other and smiled. We let go that moment.
Beautiful Shikara’s were colorfully decorated. So many Shikara can be seen lined along the lake and your trip is incomplete without a bliss ride on the lake in Shikara, which provides transportation on the lake and is used for both movements to the houseboats from the shore as well as pleasure ride on the big clear blue lake. When we sat on the Shikara the famous song “Ye Chand Sa Roshan Chehra" came to our mind and we were dancing on the boat like Shami Kapoor. Suddenly we saw one boat which was floating parallelly next to our boat. A guy who was selling fried corns. I couldn’t believe in my eyes what’s going on. But yes we ordered 3 corns, they were already fried.

Our boatman cum guide was explaining everything about the history of Kashmir. He showed us one small land which was floating on the lake. He was trying to push that part from the bow and our boat was shaking badly. We warned him don’t do this.

After boating, it was shopping time! But before that one funny incident happened. In other boat some foreigner girls were coming towards us and one of them pointed her hand towards us and I was under the impression that she was saying hello to me but when we came close, she said, hello to other group who were sitting behind us in another boat. After that incident we reached the near the floating markets. There are lots of Kashmiri shawl sellers who approached us and they will impress you with their products. Finally we went to one of the shop to buy some good woolen garments from Kashmir. They had all variety of shawls suiting all budgets. At last I bought two pashmina sweaters and one Jacket. Rajeev and Kapil came out from that shop very proudly because they didn't spend a single rupee. After reaching back to the main road, Rajeev saw one shop, he liked few things later it became some more things and spent good amount there. LoL. Later, we headed toward our hotel and ordered some food.

Started our journey to Jammu from Srinagar taxi stand and booked our seats on a sharing basis. We all sat in middle line. My headache was kept increasing and no sign of improvement after having the medicine. I managed myself somehow and we stopped in the highway dhaba where we ate so much of rice and daal which caused my memorable journey.

After 15 minutes something happened, I stopped the car and started vomit out. Aha aha...that was not the first instance. As soon as we went ahead, the frequency/program of vomiting continued to grow. In every 10-15 minutes of interval…I was doing my work. I impressed everyone so much, those who were sitting back in the car. They stared acting like me. Now all the vomit gangs were sitting in the middle and front row of the car.

Guys who joined me recently, they were fasting for Ramjan but how long, finally they broke the fast and ate chatpati goli, Offered by Rajeev. hahahahaha. That moment was very hilarious. Everyone was laughing.

Finally, we reached Jammu Station around 7:30 in the evening. By then I was fine. Our train timing was at 3:30 am in the morning. We spent entire night in the platform. Its felt like we were cursed. Our condition was getting worse due to sleep. We were roaming here and there and the heat was disturbing separately. Finally we slept in the platform for some time and didn’t realize about the time. Our train was standing on the platform already. Thanks to Mosquitos, otherwise we missed the train.

I didn’t want to end this journey but I have to. We reached our places. And as always again we started talking about our next trip.

“This is where the chapter ends”